Pocket gophers are common yard invaders notorious for their extensive underground activity and ability to destroy landscapes quickly. These burrowing rodents create complex tunnel systems that damage lawns, gardens, and tree roots, causing frustration for homeowners. Understanding how to correctly identify and implement effective removal methods is the first step toward reclaiming a yard from these persistent pests.
Confirming Gopher Activity
Proper identification is the initial step for effective pest control, as gophers are frequently confused with moles. Gophers create distinctive mounds that are typically fan-shaped, crescent-shaped, or horseshoe-shaped on the surface of the soil. The tunnel entrance is almost always plugged with soil and located off to one side of the mound, distinguishing it from other burrowing animals.
In contrast, a mole hill is generally volcano-shaped or conical, with the soil pushed up symmetrically from a central hole. The diets of these two animals also differ significantly, influencing control methods. Gophers are herbivores that primarily feed on roots, bulbs, and vegetation, causing plant damage. Moles are insectivores, feeding mainly on earthworms and grubs, and their tunneling damage is a byproduct of hunting for prey.
Mechanical Removal: Trapping Methods
Trapping is widely considered the most effective and reliable method for homeowners seeking to remove gophers. The process begins with locating the main runway, typically six to twelve inches below the surface. This is accomplished by probing the soil a few inches away from the plugged mound entrance until the probe suddenly drops into the open tunnel.
Once the main tunnel is found, the area must be excavated to create an opening large enough to place the traps. The two primary types of mechanical devices are wire pinch traps, such as the Macabee or Cinch traps, and various box traps. Wire pinch traps use a spring-loaded mechanism triggered when the gopher pushes dirt into the trap or presses a trigger plate.
For maximum efficacy, two traps must be set facing opposite directions within the main runway. This placement ensures the gopher encounters a trap regardless of which direction it is traveling to plug the disturbance. It is important to wear gloves when handling traps to prevent transferring human scent, which can cause the gopher to avoid the device.
Box traps, like the Black Box or Gopher Hawk, utilize a choker loop or wire bar mechanism. These box-style traps are often easier to set than wire pinch traps and are preferred when the tunnel diameter is small. After setting the traps, the excavated area should be covered with soil or sod to block out light and air, encouraging the gopher to approach the area to reseal the tunnel.
Deterrents and Exclusion Strategies
Exclusion, using physical barriers, is the most reliable long-term method for protecting specific areas like garden beds or valuable trees. This involves installing hardware cloth or wire mesh barriers with a small opening size, typically 1/2 to 3/4 inch.
For effective protection, the wire must be buried vertically at least two feet deep, with the bottom bent outward at a 90-degree angle to deter downward tunneling. The barrier should also extend approximately six inches above the ground to prevent gophers from entering the protected area from the surface.
For new trees or shrubs, lining the planting hole with a wire basket before backfilling the soil provides immediate root protection. While exclusion is effective, the required depth and extent of excavation make it a labor-intensive project for large areas.
Habitat modification is another method, involving the removal of dense brush and weeds that gophers use for cover and food sources. Less effective deterrents include sonic or vibrating devices, or home remedies such as castor oil repellents, which generally have limited or inconsistent success in eradicating an established gopher population.
Chemical Options and Professional Intervention
Chemical control methods for gophers primarily involve the use of toxic baits and fumigants, both of which carry significant risks. Toxic baits often contain active ingredients like zinc phosphide or, less commonly due to restrictions, strychnine. These baits are typically placed directly into the main tunnel system using a specialized probe or application device.
Zinc phosphide is a single-dose toxicant that releases phosphine gas upon contact with stomach acid. Fumigants and gas cartridges are also available, which introduce lethal gas into the sealed burrow system. These chemical options pose a danger to pets, children, and non-target wildlife through primary ingestion or secondary poisoning.
Homeowners should check local ordinances, as the use of certain chemicals may be restricted or require a license for application. A professional pest control service should be called when DIY trapping efforts have failed, when the infestation is large, or when the use of restricted chemicals is required. Professionals possess the necessary training and specialized equipment, such as carbon monoxide applicators or commercial-grade fumigants, to manage large infestations safely and effectively.