How to Get Rid of Gnats and Mosquitoes Outside

Outdoor pests like mosquitoes and gnats transform pleasant yards into irritating environments, presenting both a nuisance and a potential health concern. Mosquitoes are known carriers of diseases such as West Nile Virus and Eastern Equine Encephalitis. Fungus gnats can damage the root systems of outdoor and potted plants. Controlling these distinct pests requires a comprehensive strategy that targets different life stages, moving from environmental prevention to active, targeted treatments.

Eliminating Breeding Grounds

The most effective initial action for both mosquitoes and gnats involves disrupting their reproductive cycles by removing their preferred habitats. Mosquitoes lay their eggs in standing water; even a small amount of stagnant water can be a breeding site for hundreds of larvae. A weekly inspection is necessary to find and empty all water-holding containers, including flowerpot saucers, discarded tires, and children’s toys.

Clogged gutters are a frequently overlooked source of standing water and should be cleaned regularly to ensure proper drainage. For water features that cannot be drained, such as bird baths and pet water bowls, the water must be changed at least once a week to prevent larvae from maturing. Decorative ponds or unused pools should be properly covered or treated to eliminate the still water surface where mosquitoes deposit their eggs.

Fungus gnats are attracted to moist soil and decaying organic matter to lay their eggs. The core preventative measure for gnat control is to avoid overwatering outdoor plants and ensure excellent soil drainage. Allowing the top inch or two of soil in pots and garden beds to dry out between watering cycles discourages females from using the soil surface for reproduction.

Compost piles, poorly managed mulch, and accumulations of yard waste act as breeding grounds for gnats. Removing or thoroughly cleaning up decaying organic debris, such as fallen leaves and dead plants, reduces the food source for gnat larvae. Amending garden soil to improve drainage and reducing the use of incompletely composted organic matter can significantly reduce gnat infestations.

Non-Chemical and Biological Control Measures

Once standing water and overly moist soil conditions are addressed, non-chemical and biological methods can be applied for active pest reduction. For standing water sources that cannot be eliminated, such as rain barrels or ornamental ponds, the biological larvicide Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (BTI) is a highly specific solution. BTI is a naturally occurring soil bacterium that produces a toxin activated only when ingested by the larvae of mosquitoes, black flies, and fungus gnats.

Available commercially as dunks, tablets, or granules, BTI must be applied to the water to kill larvae before they mature into flying adults. This larvicide is safe for humans, pets, fish, and most beneficial insects, including honeybees, making it an environmentally conscious choice for aquatic environments. BTI remains effective for 24 hours up to a month, depending on the formulation, requiring periodic reapplication.

For gnats, physical traps are an effective way to monitor and reduce adult populations without chemicals. Yellow sticky traps placed near the soil surface will capture flying adults drawn to the bright color. A simple do-it-yourself trap involves mixing apple cider vinegar, water, and a few drops of dish soap in a shallow container; the soap breaks the surface tension, causing the attracted gnats to sink and drown.

Beneficial insects, such as predatory mites or the nematode species Steinernema feltiae, can be introduced to the soil to control gnat larvae. These nematodes are microscopic roundworms that actively seek out and parasitize gnat larvae, offering a long-lasting form of biological control. Applying a drench of water treated with BTI granules directly to the soil of infested plants is also an effective way to target gnat larvae.

Applying Targeted Chemical Treatments

When prevention and biological measures are not sufficient to manage severe infestations, targeted application of approved synthetic chemical treatments can provide immediate relief. For adult mosquitoes, products containing pyrethrins or synthetic pyrethroids like permethrin or sumithrin are used as adulticides. These chemicals are applied as a residual spray to foliage, dense brush, and the undersides of leaves where adult mosquitoes rest during the day.

To minimize the impact on non-target insects, especially pollinators, these sprays should be applied during the times of day when bees are less active, typically at dusk or dawn. Homeowners applying these products must strictly follow the label instructions, avoiding application to plants that are in bloom or to fruits and vegetables. The pyrethroids are designed to break down quickly in the environment, often lasting only a day or two, but they provide a rapid knockdown of the adult mosquito population.

For severe gnat problems that persist despite moisture control, a targeted soil drench may be necessary to eliminate the larval stage. While BTI is the preferred larvicide, some approved professional products use chemical ingredients to saturate the soil and kill the larvae. Using an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) in combination with a pyrethrin-based insecticide can also be a strategy for long-term control, as the IGR interferes with the larvae’s ability to mature.

In cases of very large properties, complex environments, or persistent, severe infestations, professional pest control services may be warranted. Professionals can use specialized equipment for ultra-low volume (ULV) fogging to cover large areas with adulticides, which is often done by local mosquito control districts. Regardless of the product used, the underlying issue of excess moisture in the soil or standing water must be resolved first to prevent the rapid return of the pest population.