The presence of a snake in the yard or garden can be startling, but these reptiles, often called “gardener snakes” or garter snakes, are typically harmless and beneficial to the local ecosystem. They are naturally attracted to properties that offer them food, water, and shelter, making their appearance a sign that the environment is hospitable. The goal is to safely and humanely encourage these snakes to move on, focusing on immediate non-lethal removal and long-term prevention through habitat modification.
Confirming the Species and Safety
Before any attempt at removal, confirm the snake’s identity to ensure it is not a venomous species native to your area. The common garter snake is slender, generally ranging from 18 to 42 inches in length. They are easily recognizable by the three light-colored stripes—which can be yellow, white, or green—running longitudinally down their dark body.
Garter snakes are not aggressive and usually flee quickly when approached, though they may release a foul-smelling musk or strike if handled. While they possess a mild neurotoxin in their saliva, they lack the fangs to deliver it effectively to humans. Their heads are small and not distinctly wider than their neck, and they have round pupils.
In contrast, most venomous snakes in North America, such as pit vipers like copperheads, generally have a stout body, a distinctly triangular-shaped head, and cat-like, vertical pupils. If the snake’s appearance is uncertain, assume it is venomous and observe it from a distance without attempting to approach or handle it. Contacting a professional wildlife expert for positive identification is the most prudent action.
Methods for Immediate, Humane Removal
If a harmless garter snake is found in an inconvenient location, such as a porch or garage, simple physical methods can be used for immediate, humane removal. The safest technique for a visible snake is to gently encourage it to move into a container for relocation. This can be accomplished by placing a large, deep trash can or bucket on its side near the snake.
Using a long-handled broom or similar tool, gently nudge the snake’s tail end to guide it toward the open container. Once the snake is inside, carefully lift the container upright and secure the lid, ensuring ventilation holes are present. This method minimizes direct contact and stress on the animal, preventing defensive strikes.
The snake should then be relocated to a suitable, similar habitat far enough away to discourage its return. An appropriate distance is generally a few hundred feet, up to a quarter of a mile, into a natural area with cover, water, and food sources. Never use glue traps for capture, as these devices are inhumane and often result in severe injuries, fractured jaws, or death from exhaustion.
Modifying Your Yard for Long-Term Prevention
Snakes are attracted to three primary resources: shelter, food, and water. Eliminating these attractants is the most effective long-term prevention strategy. Eliminating potential hiding spots is a crucial first step in modifying the habitat. This involves removing:
- Piles of firewood
- Rock piles
- Construction debris
- Heavy ground cover located near the house or foundation
Maintaining a short lawn across the entire property also helps, as snakes prefer not to cross open, exposed areas where they are vulnerable to predators. Shrubs and low-hanging branches should be trimmed back to create a space of at least six inches between the foliage and the ground. Furthermore, inspect the home’s foundation for entry points, as a garter snake can squeeze through cracks as narrow as half an inch.
Controlling the snake’s food sources will cause them to seek sustenance elsewhere. Garter snakes primarily prey on slugs, earthworms, frogs, and small rodents, so managing these pests is key. Avoid overwatering the lawn, which attracts earthworms and slugs, and store birdseed and pet food in sealed metal containers to deter mice and other rodents.
Finally, eliminate standing water sources, which attract both prey animals and the snakes themselves. Fix leaky outdoor faucets, ensure gutters drain properly, and regularly dump out water from children’s toys or planter saucers. For a physical barrier, consider installing snake-proof fencing made of quarter-inch galvanized mesh, which should be buried a few inches into the ground and angled outward to prevent snakes from climbing over.
Common Myths and Harmful Repellents
Many commercial and homemade snake repellent products are widely available but have little to no proven efficacy in deterring snakes. Snakes rely heavily on chemoreception, or taste and smell, to navigate their environment, but common scent-based products do not reliably disrupt this sense. Products containing essential oils, sulfur, or cayenne pepper often fail to establish a barrier that a snake will not cross.
Specifically, the use of mothballs, which contain the toxic chemical naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene, is a common but dangerous misconception. Mothballs are not effective as a snake repellent and are classified as a pesticide that is illegal to use outdoors in this manner. The toxic vapors are hazardous to pets, children, and the surrounding environment, potentially causing serious illness if ingested or inhaled.
Attempting to use these ineffective methods wastes time and may create a false sense of security regarding snake presence. The most reliable method remains the modification of the landscape to remove the shelter and food sources that initially attracted the snake. Understanding that non-venomous snakes are beneficial for controlling rodent and insect populations can also help shift the focus from extermination to humane deterrence.