Garden spiders are beneficial pest controllers, consuming significant numbers of flying insects like mosquitoes and flies. However, their large size or the placement of extensive webs across doorways often prompts homeowners to seek humane relocation. This guide provides practical, non-chemical strategies for safely managing these web-building residents.
Identifying Common Garden Spiders
The spiders most commonly encountered are large orb-weavers, including the Yellow Garden Spider (Argiope aurantia) and the Cross Orbweaver (Araneus diadematus). The Yellow Garden Spider is identified by its striking yellow and black abdomen and the distinctive zigzag pattern (stabilimentum) woven into its large, circular web. Females of this species can reach a body length of over an inch.
The Cross Orbweaver is a European species common in North America, recognizable by white or yellow spots forming a cross shape on its bulbous abdomen. These spiders are non-aggressive and generally only bite if trapped or squeezed. Their venom is not medically significant to humans, typically causing minor, localized pain comparable to a bee sting. This differs from medically significant species, such as the Black Widow, which builds an irregular web low to the ground and has a shiny black body with a red hourglass marking.
Safe Removal and Relocation Methods
Immediate, safe removal focuses on displacing the spider and its web without causing harm, allowing relocation to a less intrusive area. For large orb-weavers, the simplest approach is the jar and paper method. Place a wide-mouthed jar over the spider on a flat surface, then carefully slide a stiff piece of paper or cardboard between the surface and the jar’s rim to trap the spider inside.
If the spider is suspended in its web, use a long stick or broom to gently wrap the web around the end, lifting the spider out of its anchor point. The web and spider can then be carried away and deposited into a shrub or tree far from the home. Alternatively, a strong, direct stream from a garden hose nozzle can dislodge the spider and destroy the web structure.
When relocating the spider, aim for a natural area like a dense shrub, a wood line, or a distant fence line away from high-traffic zones. A low-suction shop vacuum can serve as a last resort for webs in difficult-to-reach eaves. If using a vacuum, ensure the canister is immediately emptied outside far from the house, as the spider will likely survive.
Long-Term Habitat Deterrents
Reducing garden spider presence involves removing the environmental factors that attract them to the home structure. Spiders are drawn to a location primarily for a readily available food source and abundant anchor points for webs. Controlling the insect population is the most effective long-term deterrent, as spiders will not remain where prey is scarce.
Exterior lighting contributes significantly to the spider’s food source, as flying insects are attracted to shorter wavelengths of light (blue and ultraviolet spectrum). Switching outdoor fixtures to warmer-toned lighting, such as yellow incandescent bulbs or sodium vapor lamps, reduces the number of insects gathering near the home. Using motion-sensor lights ensures light is only present when necessary, limiting feeding opportunities for the spider’s prey.
Spiders require stable, sheltered locations to build their large orb webs and hide. Removing clutter, woodpiles, thick mulch, and debris against the home’s foundation eliminates potential shelter and web anchor points. Trimming back vegetation that touches the house prevents spiders from establishing bridge lines from the garden to the structure.
Natural barrier methods can be employed around entry points. Spiders use sensory organs on their legs to taste and smell, and they are repelled by strong odors like menthol. A spray solution made with water and high-concentration peppermint essential oil (10 to 20 drops per cup) can be applied to window frames and door thresholds. This strong scent disrupts the spider’s navigation, encouraging them to seek an alternative habitat.