How to Get Rid of Flies on Indoor Plants

The presence of small, dark flies hovering around indoor plants is a common household annoyance, and the likely culprit is the fungus gnat (Bradysia species). These tiny pests are weak fliers often seen resting on the soil surface or scattering when disturbed. While the adult flies are mostly a nuisance, the real problem lies beneath the soil, where their larvae reside and feed. The life cycle takes approximately four weeks, and eradication requires breaking this continuous cycle at the larval stage.

Identifying the Problem and Its Root Cause

Fungus gnats are slender, dark flies, about one-eighth of an inch long, resembling miniature mosquitoes with long antennae. They can be distinguished from fruit flies, which are stouter, or shore flies, which are faster fliers with light spots. The presence of fungus gnats signals overly moist soil. Adult females are highly attracted to damp potting mix, where they lay eggs in the top one to two inches of soil.

The larvae are translucent or whitish with a shiny black head and thrive in moist environments. They primarily feed on fungi and decaying organic matter in wet soil. As populations increase, however, the larvae will begin to feed on tender plant roots, causing damage that can stunt growth or lead to yellowing leaves, especially in young plants. Addressing the adult population provides only temporary relief; effective control must target the root-feeding larvae in the top layer of the potting mix.

Immediate Physical and Environmental Controls

Reducing the adult population minimizes new egg-laying and is a necessary first step. Yellow sticky traps are highly effective because adult fungus gnats are visually attracted to the color yellow. Place these small, stake-mounted traps horizontally near the soil surface in affected pots to trap the weak-flying adults as they emerge.

Cultural control, or changing the environment, is equally important and involves adjusting watering practices. Fungus gnat larvae cannot survive in dry soil, so letting the top one to two inches of potting mix dry out completely between waterings will kill existing larvae through desiccation. To monitor the infestation, place a one-inch-thick slice of raw potato directly on the soil surface. After four to eight hours, flip the slice over to check for attracted larvae. Removing and disposing of these slices provides a simple, non-chemical way to reduce the population.

Targeted Biological and Larvae-Specific Treatments

Effective long-term control eliminates larvae using biological agents applied as a soil drench. The most popular method uses products containing Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti), a naturally occurring soil bacterium. Bti produces protein crystals that are toxic only to fungus gnat larvae when ingested. Apply Bti by soaking a product like “Mosquito Bits” in a watering can for at least 30 minutes, then use the resulting Bti-infused water to thoroughly soak the soil.

Another approach is a soil drench using Neem oil, an organic pesticide extracted from neem tree seeds. The active compound, azadirachtin, acts as an insect growth regulator and appetite suppressant for larvae. For indoor use, dilute a cold-pressed Neem oil concentrate with water and a few drops of mild liquid soap, which acts as an emulsifier. Apply this mixture directly to the soil, ensuring the drench penetrates the entire root zone. Beneficial nematodes, specifically Steinernema feltiae, are also an advanced biological solution. These microscopic roundworms actively seek out and infect fungus gnat larvae in the soil.

Long-Term Soil and Watering Management

Preventing the return of fungus gnats requires a permanent change in watering habits, which is the underlying cause of the problem. Instead of watering on a fixed calendar schedule, check the soil moisture by inserting a finger or a moisture meter before adding water. Allow the top layer of soil to dry out completely before watering again, creating an inhospitable environment for egg-laying females and larvae.

Consider adopting a bottom-watering method, placing the pot in a saucer of water for 30 to 60 minutes to allow roots to absorb moisture from below. This technique keeps the soil surface dry, deterring adult gnats from laying eggs while still hydrating the roots. Ensuring proper drainage is important, as is using a fresh, well-draining potting mix that does not retain excessive moisture. Always quarantine new plants for at least two weeks and inspect them thoroughly before introducing them to your existing collection to prevent new infestations.