Creeping Myrtle (Vinca minor or Vinca major) is a perennial groundcover often planted for its glossy, evergreen foliage and attractive spring flowers. Its vigorous growth habit allows it to spread rapidly, forming dense mats that displace native plants and become difficult to manage. The plant reproduces vegetatively by rooting at the nodes along its trailing stems, making it highly invasive and resistant to simple removal methods. Successfully eliminating creeping myrtle requires persistence and a strategic combination of physical removal and targeted chemical control.
Characteristics and Identification
The plant is identified by its small, dark green leaves that are thick, glossy, and arranged oppositely on the stem. These leaves are typically elliptical to ovate, creating a dense, leathery mat that remains green throughout the winter. In spring and early summer, the plant produces distinctive pinwheel-style flowers, usually in shades of lavender or blue-violet.
The plant’s creeping nature comes from its semi-woody stems, which sprawl across the ground and can extend up to three feet. These stems form roots easily wherever they touch the soil, creating a widespread, interconnected network. This vegetative reproduction makes the plant difficult to control, as missing even a small segment allows the entire patch to regrow.
Eradication Through Physical Methods
Physical removal is the most environmentally conscious approach, though it requires significant labor and patience for established colonies. The fundamental challenge lies in the plant’s ability to re-sprout from small root fragments or stem nodes. Working when the soil is moist facilitates the removal of the entire root system without the stems snapping prematurely.
Hand pulling and digging is best reserved for small patches or areas closely surrounded by desirable plants. Carefully trace each trailing stem back to its root point, gently pulling the entire plant and its rootlets from the ground. Because the thin, semi-woody stems break easily, pull slowly and firmly, ensuring the entire root crown is removed with the vine.
For larger infestations, a two-step smothering process can eliminate the plant using darkness and heat. First, cut the vines back as close to the ground as possible using a mower or weed trimmer to remove the bulk of the foliage. Next, cover the entire area with thick black plastic sheeting, tarp, or overlapping layers of heavy cardboard, securing the edges to prevent light exposure.
This process, known as solarization or smothering, starves the plant of light and generates heat, which helps to kill the roots. To be effective against the persistent root system, the covering should remain in place for a minimum of one full growing season, or approximately four to six months. This extended period ensures the root system is depleted of stored energy reserves and cannot send up new shoots once the cover is removed.
Targeted Herbicide Application
When the infestation is too large or dense for manual methods, systemic herbicides offer a practical means of control by targeting the root structure. Products containing the active ingredients glyphosate or triclopyr are the most effective, as they are absorbed by the leaves and transported throughout the plant. Glyphosate is a broad-spectrum herbicide, while triclopyr is often preferred near turfgrass because it targets broadleaf weeds without harming most grasses.
The waxy cuticle on the leaves can repel water-based herbicides, so adding a surfactant to the spray mixture increases effectiveness. Herbicides should be applied when the plant is actively transporting nutrients to its roots. Optimal application times are late summer, early fall, or early spring just before the plant flowers.
To minimize harm to surrounding vegetation, use a targeted application strategy. Where desirable plants are nearby, use a foam brush or wick applicator to paint a concentrated solution directly onto the foliage. Alternatively, cut the vine back and apply the herbicide directly to the fresh cut stems to ensure instant absorption and translocation throughout the root system.
Protective gear, such as gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection, should be worn during mixing and application. Full results from a systemic herbicide may take up to two weeks to become visible, and re-treatment is frequently necessary to eliminate missed sections or re-sprouts.
Long-Term Site Management
Successful initial removal is only the first part of a multi-season management plan, as latent root fragments and seeds can lead to re-establishment. Continuous monitoring is necessary for at least a few years, particularly around the edges of the previously infested area, to catch any new growth immediately. Any sprouts that appear should be manually pulled while they are small, removing the entire root and stem piece.
Proper disposal of the removed plant material is necessary to prevent accidental re-rooting elsewhere. Because creeping myrtle roots easily from small stem segments, the pulled vines should not be added to a compost pile. Instead, the debris should be bagged and disposed of as municipal waste or left in a dry, contained area to fully desiccate before disposal.
Once the area is clear, installing a replacement planting or a thick layer of mulch helps suppress any remaining viability in the soil. Planting desirable vegetation will shade the soil and outcompete any emerging myrtle sprouts. A dense layer of wood chips or other organic mulch serves as an effective barrier against potential re-growth from residual roots.