Clover is a broadleaf weed that frequently invades home lawns, challenging the uniformity of warm-season turfgrasses like Bermudagrass. This article provides practical strategies for removing clover from your Bermudagrass lawn and implementing a health plan to ensure it does not return. The focus is on techniques that effectively target the weed while maintaining the health and vigor of the turf.
Why Clover Thrives in Bermudagrass
Clover often flourishes in Bermudagrass lawns by exploiting underlying soil deficiencies, particularly a lack of nitrogen. As a legume, clover performs atmospheric nitrogen fixation, converting nitrogen gas from the air into a usable form. This process allows the clover to fertilize itself. When the soil is low in nitrogen, Bermudagrass struggles, creating an opportunity for the clover to spread rapidly.
The physical condition of the soil also favors clover’s invasion. Clover’s root system enables it to thrive in compacted soil conditions where Bermudagrass roots cannot penetrate and grow effectively. Furthermore, mowing Bermudagrass too short stresses the turf, reducing its density and opening the canopy. This increased light exposure allows clover seeds to germinate easily and establish new patches.
Non-Chemical Methods for Immediate Removal
For small or isolated infestations, mechanical and cultural controls offer an effective way to remove clover without chemical products. Hand-pulling is most successful when the soil is moist after rain or irrigation. This moisture helps ensure the entire root structure is removed, which prevents the plant from regrowing. For larger areas, a garden trowel or weed popper can assist in lifting the clover and its roots.
Adjusting the mowing height is a simple cultural practice that gives Bermudagrass a competitive advantage. Raising the cutting deck to at least three inches increases the height of the turf canopy. This increased leaf length shades the soil surface, blocking the sunlight clover needs to germinate. The resulting dense canopy naturally suppresses the weed population.
A selective, non-chemical option involves applying iron-based products, specifically those containing chelated iron like FeHEDTA. These compounds are toxic to broadleaf weeds, causing them to blacken and die. Since Bermudagrass is a monocot, it can handle higher iron levels without injury and often becomes greener. Multiple applications throughout the season may be required to completely eradicate the clover.
Chemical Control: Selective Herbicides Safe for Bermudagrass
For widespread clover problems, selective post-emergent herbicides provide the most efficient control, as they target broadleaf weeds without harming the Bermudagrass. The most common formulations are “three-way” products, which typically combine active ingredients such as 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop), and dicamba. These ingredients work systemically, absorbing through the clover’s leaves and traveling to the roots for a complete kill.
A proper application schedule is essential for maximizing effectiveness. The best time to apply these selective products is when the clover is actively growing, typically during the spring and fall. Applying them during the heat of summer, when temperatures exceed 85 degrees Fahrenheit, can cause severe injury to the Bermudagrass. If using certain herbicides, a non-ionic surfactant must be added to the spray mixture. This helps the herbicide stick to the waxy leaves of the clover for better absorption.
Always read the specific product label to confirm the herbicide is safe for use on Bermudagrass, as some products are only formulated for cool-season turf. After application, wait until the spray has completely dried (usually a few hours) before allowing children or pets back onto the treated area. Results with systemic herbicides are not immediate and may take one to three weeks to fully manifest as the clover twists and curls. Multiple applications spaced several weeks apart may be necessary to eliminate large or stubborn clover patches.
Long-Term Prevention Through Optimized Turf Health
Preventing clover’s return is achieved by establishing a dense, healthy Bermudagrass turf that outcompetes the weed. This process begins with a soil test to understand the nutrient profile and pH level. Bermudagrass prefers a slightly acidic to neutral pH (ideally between 6.0 and 7.0). Correcting the soil pH with amendments like lime or sulfur ensures the grass can efficiently absorb nutrients.
Targeted nitrogen fertilization is the most important maintenance practice to deter clover, as it removes the weed’s primary advantage. Applying a high-nitrogen fertilizer encourages the Bermudagrass to grow vigorously and spread, creating a thick canopy that shades the soil. Since clover is already fixing its own nitrogen, the additional nitrogen primarily benefits the grass, tipping the competitive balance in favor of the turf.
Addressing soil compaction through regular aeration is necessary to improve water and nutrient uptake. Aeration involves removing small plugs of soil to create channels for air and water penetration, giving the grass roots the space they need to thrive. Combining these soil and nutrient management practices with deep, infrequent watering encourages a robust root system, making the lawn naturally resistant to clover establishment.