Cedar trees, particularly the fast-growing Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana), are highly adaptable conifers that can quickly colonize open land. This resilience, combined with their ability to thrive in poor soils and full sun, often leads to their classification as a “weedy” species in certain landscapes. Removing a mature cedar requires careful planning and execution to ensure safety and effectively manage the remaining root system. The process involves comprehensive preparation, precise felling techniques, and methods to prevent long-term issues from the leftover stump.
Essential Preparation Before Removal
Physical removal must be preceded by a thorough assessment of the surrounding environment to prevent property damage and liability. Begin by inspecting the tree’s proximity to structures, power lines, and other obstacles that could be impacted by the fall. Calculating the tree’s height and establishing a clear fall zone that is at least one and a half times the tree’s height is necessary for safe operation.
It is necessary to investigate local municipal ordinances and Homeowners Association (HOA) regulations, as many jurisdictions require a permit for removing trees above a specific diameter at breast height (DBH). HOAs often have stricter rules, requiring a formal application, written approval, and sometimes a certified arborist’s report before any work can begin. Failure to obtain the necessary permissions can result in significant fines and mandatory tree replacement.
Personal protective equipment (PPE) is mandatory for any felling operation involving a chainsaw. This equipment includes a helmet with a face shield, hearing protection, and cut-resistant gloves. Additional protection involves wearing leg chaps, which contain ballistic fibers designed to jam the chainsaw upon contact, and steel-toed boots.
Techniques for Felling Mature Cedar Trees
Bringing down a mature cedar tree requires directional felling, a technique that uses controlled cuts to guide the tree’s descent. The process begins with creating a notch, or face cut, on the side of the trunk facing the desired fall direction. This notch typically removes approximately one-third of the tree’s diameter and establishes the pivot point for the fall.
The second cut, known as the back cut, is made horizontally on the opposite side of the tree, slightly above the bottom of the notch. The goal is to leave a hinge of uncut wood, generally about one-tenth of the tree’s diameter, between the notch and the back cut. This hinge is the mechanical component that controls the tree’s direction and speed as it falls.
As the back cut approaches the hinge, felling wedges can be driven into the cut to help push the tree over and prevent the saw blade from binding. Simultaneously, two clear escape routes must be established at 45-degree angles away from the fall line to allow the operator to retreat safely as the tree begins to fall.
Eliminating the Stump and Preventing Regrowth
Once the main trunk is felled, managing the remaining stump and root system is necessary to prevent future biological activity. For the Eastern Redcedar, unlike some other species, the stump generally does not resprout, meaning treatment is focused on accelerating decomposition rather than suppressing suckers. One effective method is the chemical application of a high-concentration herbicide, such as a 50% solution of glyphosate or triclopyr. This solution must be painted onto the freshly cut surface within minutes of felling, specifically targeting the cambium layer, which is the live, outer ring of wood just beneath the bark.
Alternatively, a mechanical approach involves using a stump grinder to shred the wood down to a depth of 6 to 18 inches below the soil line. Grinding removes the stump entirely, turning the wood into chips that can be used as mulch or mixed with soil. This method offers an immediate physical solution without the use of chemicals.
A third option is accelerated natural decomposition, which involves enhancing the activity of wood-rotting microorganisms. This is achieved by drilling multiple deep holes, approximately 8 to 12 inches deep, across the stump surface. These holes are then filled with a high-nitrogen source, such as a commercial stump remover containing potassium nitrate or a high-nitrogen fertilizer like blood meal. Soaking the stump with water and covering it with a plastic tarp or thick mulch helps retain moisture and warmth, creating an optimal environment for fungi and bacteria to break down the wood fibers.
Handling and Disposing of Debris
The removal of a large cedar tree generates a significant volume of vegetative debris that requires efficient management. The larger trunk sections can be cut into smaller pieces and seasoned for use as firewood, as cedar wood is known for its aromatic properties. Branches and smaller limbs can be run through a wood chipper to create mulch for landscaping beds.
It is important to check local regulations regarding the disposal of yard waste, as many municipalities have specific rules for curbside collection. These rules often dictate that branches must be cut to a maximum length, such as four feet, and tied into manageable bundles. Avoid placing debris near utility boxes or fire hydrants, and ensure all waste is separated according to local guidelines for vegetative debris.