Stepping on a burweed sticker (also known as spurweed or sticker weed) is a common frustration for many homeowners. This nuisance is a low-growing, winter annual broadleaf weed that can quickly turn a yard into a prickly hazard. Effective control depends on understanding its life cycle and acting before spring warmth encourages the plant to produce its spine-tipped seeds. This guide provides actionable strategies, from cultural practices to targeted chemical treatments, to help you reclaim your lawn and prevent future infestations.
Identifying Burweed and Optimal Treatment Timing
Burweed, scientifically known as Soliva sessilis, is a winter annual that germinates in the fall as temperatures begin to cool. During winter, it remains inconspicuous, growing low to the ground with sparsely hairy, parsley-like leaves. The plant often goes unnoticed while it is small and your warm-season turf is dormant.
As temperatures rise in late winter and early spring, burweed grows rapidly and forms small flowers in the leaf axils. These flowers mature into the hard, spine-tipped burs or “stickers” that cause pain when stepped upon. Control timing is critical because once burs harden, killing the plant will not eliminate the existing stickers, which persist for months. The most effective time to treat burweed is in the late fall to early winter, either before germination or while the plant is still young and has not yet set seed.
Non-Chemical and Cultural Removal Methods
Cultural practices focus on creating a dense, healthy lawn that naturally crowds out weeds like burweed, which thrive in thin or patchy turf. This includes proper fertilization and adjusting soil pH based on soil test results to encourage vigorous growth.
Adjusting mowing practices also helps suppress burweed, as mowing at the correct height promotes a thicker canopy. The increased density shades the soil, making it less hospitable for burweed seeds to germinate and compete for resources. For existing, smaller infestations, mechanical removal is possible, but you must wear gloves and ensure the entire plant, including the root, is removed before the burs form.
For larger, localized patches, solarization can be used to eliminate the weed without chemicals. This technique involves covering the area with clear plastic sheeting during a warm period, trapping solar heat and raising soil temperature to levels lethal to the burweed and its seeds. This method requires sustained high temperatures and can take several weeks, making it a viable option for a non-turf area or a planned renovation. Aerating compacted ground can also help, as burweed tends to flourish in dense soil.
Choosing and Applying Effective Herbicides
Chemical control offers the most reliable solution for widespread burweed infestations, utilizing both preventative and reactive treatments. The most strategic approach involves applying pre-emergent herbicides in the fall to stop the seeds from sprouting. Effective pre-emergent active ingredients include:
- Atrazine
- Simazine
- Prodiamine
- Isoxaben
These products create a chemical barrier at the soil surface, preventing germination, and should be applied in late September or October when nighttime temperatures consistently drop into the 55–60°F range.
If the pre-emergent window is missed, post-emergent herbicides kill actively growing plants during winter (ideally December through February). Post-emergent treatments must be applied before the burweed forms its hardened stickers in early spring. Look for three-way broadleaf herbicides containing active ingredients such as 2,4-D, dicamba, and mecoprop (MCPP). Products with a higher percentage of dicamba and mecoprop are more effective against burweed.
Application is most successful on a warm, sunny day when air temperatures are at least 55°F, as the weed is actively growing and can absorb the herbicide more effectively. Follow all label instructions strictly, especially regarding personal protective equipment and the correct rate for your specific turfgrass type. A follow-up application 10 to 14 days after the initial treatment may be necessary for thorough control, but this must be done before the stickers begin to harden.