How to Get Rid of Burrowing Animals

Burrowing animals quickly turn lawns or gardens into networks of destructive tunnels and unsightly mounds. These pests cause damage by disrupting plant root systems, creating tripping hazards, and undermining landscaping features. Addressing this requires identifying the specific species involved and employing targeted, effective removal methods. This guide provides steps for homeowners to manage these conflicts in a humane and responsible manner.

Identifying the Burrowing Culprit

Successful management requires identifying the animal creating the disturbance, as control methods vary significantly by species. Moles, gophers, and voles leave distinct signatures in the soil. Moles are insectivores that create characteristic volcano-shaped mounds of soil lacking a visible entry plug. They also create raised, meandering ridges across the lawn’s surface as they hunt for earthworms and grubs just beneath the turf.

Gophers are herbivores that feed on plant roots and bulbs, creating crescent- or horseshoe-shaped mounds. These mounds typically feature a distinct soil plug that seals the entrance to the tunnel system. Voles, often called meadow mice, rarely create large mounds but instead form small, clean-cut entrance holes, usually about the size of a golf ball. Voles also leave shallow, visible surface runways or trails through the grass as they travel and feed on vegetation.

Non-Lethal Exclusion Strategies

Exclusion and habitat modification offer effective, non-lethal methods to deter burrowing animals. Constructing physical barriers protects valuable garden beds and vulnerable plants. This involves burying galvanized hardware cloth (such as half-inch mesh) at least 18 to 24 inches deep vertically.

The barrier requires an “L-shaped” bend at the bottom, where the mesh is flared outward for 6 to 10 inches to prevent digging underneath the vertical wall. For new sod or raised beds, installing a flat layer of half-inch mesh under the soil surface blocks access from below. Protecting individual plants requires using wire cages or baskets around the root ball before planting to prevent herbivores from feeding on the roots.

Repellents, such as castor oil-based products, are also common deterrents. The active ingredient, ricinoleic acid, irritates the digestive system and creates an unpleasant taste and odor in the soil, causing animals to seek new foraging areas. These repellents are non-toxic, relying on sensory disruption rather than harm. Modifying the animal’s food source, such as treating a lawn for grubs, proves ineffective for moles, since their primary diet consists of earthworms, which are not eliminated by most modern insecticides.

Direct Intervention and Removal

When exclusion fails, direct intervention through trapping or chemical control is necessary for established infestations. Trapping is the most reliable method, but it demands precise technique and proper trap selection. For moles, the first step is identifying an active, frequently used tunnel, often done by collapsing a section of the run and checking for repair within 24 hours.

Different mole traps are designed for specific tunnel depths. The harpoon or plunger trap is set directly over a collapsed surface run; when the mole pushes the soil back up, it releases the spring. Scissor-jaw traps are inserted directly into the tunnel, often perpendicular to the run, and are triggered by the mole’s movement.

For gophers, removal involves locating the main runway (typically 6 to 12 inches below ground) by probing near a fresh mound. An opening is excavated to expose the main tunnel, and two specialized gopher traps (such as box or wire claw traps) are placed inside, facing opposite directions. Leaving the excavated hole partially open encourages the gopher to approach and plug the breach, which triggers the trap.

Chemical controls, including toxic baits and fumigants, are an alternative but must be used with caution. Specialized baits, such as worm-shaped products containing Bromethalin, appeal to the mole’s insectivore diet but carry a risk of secondary poisoning to predators or pets. Fumigants release a toxic gas into the burrow system and are effective, but they require moist soil for proper gas containment and carry risks if used too close to structures. Strict adherence to the product label is required by federal law, and many highly toxic anticoagulant rodenticides are restricted to licensed professionals due to the risk of secondary poisoning to wildlife.

Safety, Legality, and Professional Help

Before beginning any lethal control program, homeowners must verify local ordinances and state regulations. Laws may restrict the use of certain traps or chemical agents, and some burrowing species may be protected, requiring a permit for removal. Checking traps daily is a legal requirement in many jurisdictions to ensure humane practices.

Safety is paramount, especially when using spring-loaded traps or chemical baits. Traps should always be handled with gloves to prevent human scent from deterring the animal and to protect the user from injury. Chemical products must be applied strictly according to label instructions and kept out of reach of children and pets to mitigate the risk of accidental exposure or secondary poisoning.

Seeking professional pest control is advisable for large, persistent infestations or when a homeowner cannot manage the problem safely. Professionals possess the necessary licenses for restricted materials, specialized equipment, and the experience to manage extensive tunnel systems. Consulting local extension offices or wildlife authorities can provide guidance on legal compliance and best practices for humane removal.