Rabbits often seek shelter beneath sheds, decks, and similar structures, viewing the enclosed space as a safe haven from predators and harsh weather. They can quickly become a nuisance, causing damage through chewing and digging burrows. Addressing this requires a thoughtful, multi-step approach that prioritizes the humane removal of existing occupants before implementing a permanent structural solution. The goal is to encourage the rabbits to relocate on their own, allowing you to secure the area safely.
Assessing the Situation and Legal Considerations
Before attempting any physical intervention, confirm that the space is not occupied by a nest, known as a “form,” containing dependent young kits. A rabbit nest is a shallow depression in the ground, lined with grass and the mother’s fur, and covered with a thin layer of debris to conceal it. The mother typically leaves the nest alone for most of the day, returning only a few times to feed the young.
If a nest is discovered, it must not be disturbed, as the kits are completely dependent on their mother for survival. Young rabbits are usually self-sufficient and mobile within three to four weeks after birth, so wait until they have vacated the area naturally. This waiting period ensures the survival of the young animals.
You should also check with your local or state wildlife agency regarding laws about the trapping or relocation of wild animals. In many jurisdictions, it is illegal to capture and relocate wildlife off your property. Relocation can often lead to the animal’s death due to stress or lack of familiar resources in a new environment.
Encouraging Humane Departure
Once you are certain the occupants are mobile rabbits, or the young kits have left, begin making the area unappealing to encourage voluntary departure. The objective is to gently harass the rabbits so they decide the shed is no longer a safe place to shelter. These temporary measures motivate the rabbits to exit so you can install a lasting barrier.
A primary strategy is introducing non-toxic, strong-smelling deterrents near the entrance, as rabbits rely heavily on their sense of smell. Commercial granular or spray repellents often use ingredients that signal danger or an unpleasant environment. To further encourage departure, the area can be harassed for 24 to 48 hours using combined disturbances.
Harassment Techniques
- Placing a battery-operated radio tuned to a talk station.
- Using a vibrating device near the entrance.
- Shining a bright light inside the burrow entrance.
- Applying strong-smelling deterrents like dried blood or predator urine scents.
The consistent, low-level harassment will prompt the rabbit to seek a quieter, safer location away from the shed. This step ensures the space is empty before proceeding to the permanent exclusion phase. You must confirm the animal has left before sealing the entry point, as trapping a rabbit inside would be inhumane.
Permanent Structural Exclusion
The long-term solution to prevent rabbits from living under your shed is installing a permanent physical barrier around the perimeter. This method, often called an “L-footer” or trenching, prevents rabbits from digging their way back in. Use heavy-gauge, galvanized wire mesh, ideally hardware cloth with openings of one-half inch or less, as rabbits can squeeze through small spaces.
Start by digging a trench 6 to 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide along the perimeter where rabbits gain access. Secure the wire mesh to the bottom edge of the shed, extending it down into the trench. Bend the bottom portion of the mesh outward at a 90-degree angle, forming an “L” shape that extends horizontally for at least 12 inches away from the structure.
This L-shaped outward bend acts as a horizontal barrier. When a rabbit attempts to dig down along the shed’s edge, it will encounter the wire mesh and stop digging, preventing a successful burrow. Before backfilling the trench with soil, ensure all rabbits have definitively left the structure.
The final step is to loosely plug the main entrance hole with crumpled newspaper or flour. If the plug remains undisturbed for two or three days, you can safely fill the trench and permanently seal the entry point.