How to Get Rid of Broccoli Worms Naturally

The experience of nurturing a broccoli plant only to find it riddled with holes and crawling with caterpillars is a common frustration for gardeners. These pests, often collectively called “broccoli worms,” can quickly defoliate plants and burrow into the developing heads, ruining the harvest. Successfully managing these garden intruders does not require synthetic chemicals, as a range of safe, natural, and organic strategies can be employed. This approach focuses on physical barriers, biological controls, and cultural practices to protect the crop from the moment of planting through harvest.

Identifying the Common Pests

Three main caterpillar species cause damage to broccoli and other brassica crops. The Imported Cabbage Worm is the most frequently encountered, recognized by its velvety green body, which grows up to one inch long and often displays faint yellow stripes along the back and sides. These larvae are the offspring of the small white butterfly commonly seen flitting around the garden.

The Cabbage Looper is a pale green caterpillar that can reach one and a half inches in length. It is distinguished by its unique movement, lacking middle legs, which causes it to arch its body into a characteristic “loop” as it inches across the leaf surface. The Diamondback Moth Larvae are the smallest, growing only to about one-third of an inch, and are light green with bodies tapered at both ends. When disturbed, the diamondback larvae often wiggle vigorously and sometimes drop from the plant on a silk thread.

Physical Exclusion and Manual Removal

Preventing adult moths and butterflies from laying eggs is the most effective initial defense against infestation. Lightweight floating row covers, which are fine mesh fabrics, physically block the insects from accessing the leaves. These covers must be draped over hoops or supports to avoid contact with the plants, and the edges must be completely sealed with soil or weights to prevent entry.

For smaller gardens or early-stage infestations, handpicking remains an immediate and highly effective control method. Checking the undersides of leaves and the central growing points is necessary, as the pests often hide in these protected areas. Removed caterpillars can be dropped into a container of soapy water for quick disposal.

A directed spray of water can also dislodge small or newly hatched larvae from the leaves. This method is useful for washing off younger pests that have not yet burrowed deep into the plant’s central head. Consistent inspection and removal during peak egg-laying periods significantly reduces the population before serious damage occurs.

Applying Organic Sprays and Biological Controls

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

The biological insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki (Bt) is a highly targeted and effective organic solution for controlling caterpillars. This naturally occurring soil bacterium is harmless to humans, pets, and beneficial insects, as it only affects insects in the order Lepidoptera (moths and butterflies). When a caterpillar ingests the bacterium on the treated leaf surface, the alkaline environment of its gut activates a protein toxin. This toxin paralyzes the digestive system, causing the caterpillar to stop feeding within hours and die within a few days.

Bt is most effective when applied early, targeting the first and second larval instars before they grow large. Since the bacterium breaks down quickly in sunlight, application is best done in the late afternoon or evening when caterpillars feed most heavily. Reapplication is necessary every five to seven days and after any significant rain event, which can wash the product off the leaves.

Neem Oil and Insecticidal Soap

Neem oil, derived from the seeds of the neem tree, provides defense by acting as both a repellent and a growth disruptor due to the active compound azadirachtin. Use cold-pressed neem oil mixed with water and a small amount of insecticidal soap or mild liquid soap, which acts as an emulsifier. Neem oil should be applied in the evening or on a cloudy day to cover all leaf surfaces, as application in direct sunlight can cause leaf burn (phytotoxicity).

Insecticidal soap is a contact-based treatment that kills very young, soft-bodied larvae by breaking down their outer cell membranes. Unlike Bt, it must directly coat the pest to be effective, and it offers no residual protection once the spray dries.

Companion Planting

Strategically planting aromatic herbs such as dill, rosemary, or sage near the broccoli can help confuse or deter the adult moths and butterflies from laying their eggs on the crop.

Long-Term Garden Management

Implementing strategic crop rotation minimizes the long-term risk of brassica pests. Since pests and diseases can overwinter or build up populations in the soil, planting broccoli and related crops like cabbage or kale in the same location year after year should be avoided. A rotation cycle of at least three to four years disrupts the pest’s life cycle by depriving them of their primary food source.

Thorough fall cleanup of the garden is important for reducing pest pressure in the following season. Removing all spent plant debris and lightly tilling the soil after harvest helps to destroy or expose overwintering pupae, the resting stage before adult moths emerge. This maintenance step prevents a large initial population from emerging when new plants are set out in the spring.

Controlling common weeds in the brassica family, such as Shepherd’s purse, is another preventative measure. These weeds serve as alternate host plants for the caterpillars when the main crop is not present, allowing the pest population to persist. Eliminating these alternative hosts reduces the available egg-laying sites for the adult moths and butterflies.