The Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana) has long been a popular ornamental tree, but its removal often presents a significant challenge due to its notorious root system. This species, particularly the ‘Bradford’ cultivar, possesses a shallow and aggressive network of roots that extend widely, often disrupting sidewalks and foundations. The wood is dense, and the rootstock is vigorous, meaning cutting the tree down is only the first step in a long process. The difficulty lies in permanently eliminating the remaining root mass, which tends to resprout after the trunk is removed. The following approaches detail the most effective strategies for destroying the persistent root system and preventing future growth.
Mechanical Destruction of the Main Stump
Removing the central stump and the large roots connected to it is the most immediate way to eliminate the main source of regrowth. Stump grinding is the preferred mechanical method, using specialized machinery to chip away the dense wood. To successfully prevent the Bradford Pear’s aggressive root system from regenerating, the grinding process must extend significantly below the soil surface.
The stump should be ground down to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches below the surrounding grade. This depth pulverizes the crown and flare roots, removing the energy source for future sprouts and creating space for new landscaping. Grinding to a shallower depth often leaves enough viable tissue to initiate new growth, which is a common reason for the tree’s persistent nature. Since professional-grade stump grinders are expensive and potentially hazardous, many homeowners opt to hire a professional service for this labor-intensive task.
For smaller stumps, or in areas where machinery cannot reach, manual removal through digging remains an option, though it is extremely difficult. This involves exposing lateral roots by digging around the stump, then systematically severing them using heavy-duty tools like a mattock or a reciprocating saw. The main root ball can then be levered out once the surrounding roots are cut. After any mechanical removal, the resulting chips and debris should be removed, as leaving them can sometimes provide a medium for new growth or harbor disease.
Chemical Application Methods for Root Kill
Applying a concentrated systemic herbicide directly to the fresh-cut stump is a highly effective way to ensure the entire root system dies completely. This method relies on the tree’s natural circulatory system to transport the chemical throughout the roots, killing the structure from within. The most suitable active ingredients for this process are concentrated formulations of Glyphosate or Triclopyr, which are designed to be absorbed by woody plants.
Timing is important for this chemical treatment; the herbicide must be applied immediately after the tree is cut, ideally within five to fifteen minutes. Once the tree is cut, the vascular system begins to seal off, rapidly reducing the ability of the stump to absorb the chemical. To maximize absorption, the herbicide should be painted only onto the cambium layer, which is the thin, moist ring of living tissue located just beneath the bark.
For larger stumps, drilling several downward-angled holes into the top surface can help deliver the herbicide deeper into the wood and roots, but the most important area to treat remains the cambium ring. Avoid over-applying the chemical, as excess herbicide can run off the stump and potentially harm surrounding desirable plants. This targeted application ensures the chemical is translocated down to the roots, preventing the remaining underground structure from generating new shoots.
Stopping Persistent Root Suckers
Even after the main stump is removed or chemically treated, the aggressive rootstock of the Bradford Pear often responds to the main tree’s loss by producing numerous, vigorous shoots known as suckers. This is a survival mechanism where the roots use stored energy reserves to grow new foliage. These suckers can appear many feet away from the original trunk location, sometimes for a year or two after the tree is cut.
Simply mowing over or repeatedly cutting these suckers at ground level is generally ineffective and may even stimulate the remaining roots to produce more shoots. Continuous cutting only temporarily removes the visible growth, but it does not deplete the energy stored in the root system. Leaving the suckers for a long time also makes the problem worse, as they photosynthesize and replenish the root’s energy reserves.
The most successful strategy for stopping persistent suckers is a targeted spot treatment using a systemic herbicide. Individual suckers should be cut near the ground, and a small amount of concentrated Glyphosate or Triclopyr should be carefully painted onto the fresh-cut surface. This direct application ensures the herbicide travels down into the specific lateral root that produced the sucker, killing that section of the root system without affecting nearby vegetation. Applying a thorough chemical treatment to the main stump immediately after cutting is the best preventative measure, as it significantly reduces the likelihood of these problematic suckers emerging in the first place.