Bamboo’s aggressive growth habit often causes it to spread far beyond its intended area. Successful removal requires understanding its unique underground structure: a network of stems called rhizomes. These rhizomes store energy and drive the plant’s spread and regrowth, meaning cutting down the canes above ground will not solve the problem. Eradicating an infestation demands a focused, multi-stage approach combining physical labor with targeted strategies to deplete the plant’s energy reserves.
Assessing the Bamboo Type
The first step in removal is correctly identifying the type of bamboo, as this dictates the necessary effort. Bamboo falls into two main categories based on rhizome structure: running and clumping. Running bamboo (monopodial) is the highly aggressive type that causes the most trouble for homeowners.
Running varieties, such as those in the Phyllostachys genus, spread via long, slender rhizomes that can travel horizontally for many feet each season before sending up new shoots. This creates a far-reaching network that is difficult to locate and remove entirely. This type requires the most intensive removal efforts due to its expansive underground spread.
Clumping bamboo (sympodial) is much easier to manage because its rhizomes are short, thick, and form a tight, compact root ball that expands slowly. New shoots typically emerge only inches away from the parent plant, making the entire mass easier to isolate and remove. Check the area for lateral spread of new shoots far from the original planting to confirm the type.
Mechanical and Manual Removal Methods
Manual removal provides a physical solution for smaller infestations or for those who wish to avoid herbicides, though it is highly labor-intensive. The process begins by cutting all above-ground canes (culms) down to ground level using a saw or loppers. This initial step forces the plant to rely solely on the energy stored within its rhizome system.
The most difficult part of manual removal is the aggressive excavation of the rhizome mat, which can lie 6 to 18 inches deep, though some may penetrate up to three feet. Use heavy-duty tools like a mattock, pickaxe, or a reciprocating saw with a heavy-duty blade to chop through the thick, woody rhizomes. Work from the outside of the colony inward, removing the root mass in manageable chunks. Ensure every fragment is removed, as bamboo can regrow from even small pieces.
Solarization is a non-chemical method that helps exhaust the underground system. After cutting all the canes, cover the cleared area with thick, opaque plastic sheeting secured tightly around the edges. This process starves the rhizomes of light and traps solar heat, essentially cooking the root mass. The plastic must remain in place for at least one full growing season to significantly affect the deep root system.
Chemical Eradication Strategies
When manual removal is impractical due to the size of the infestation, targeted chemical eradication offers a powerful alternative. Systemic herbicides, most commonly concentrated glyphosate solutions, are used because they are absorbed by the plant and transported down to the rhizomes to kill the entire underground network. Foliar spraying on the leaves is often ineffective against established bamboo due to the dense waxy coating on the leaves and volume of foliage.
The most effective targeted chemical approach is the “cut-and-paint” method. This involves cutting the bamboo cane a few inches above a node and immediately applying a high-concentration herbicide (typically 40% glyphosate or greater) directly to the freshly cut stump. The application must occur quickly, ideally within five minutes, as the bamboo cane seals off the wound rapidly. This direct application ensures the chemical is pulled into the vascular system and circulated to the rhizomes.
This process must be repeated for every cane in the infestation. It is best done in the late summer or fall when the plant actively transports energy down to its roots for winter storage. Follow safety precautions strictly, including wearing protective gloves and eye protection, and only applying the chemical directly to the cut surface. The chemical treatment will not remove the dead rhizomes, which may require excavation if the area is to be replanted immediately.
Preventing Future Spread and Recurrence
After the initial removal, continuous monitoring is necessary to prevent any recurrence from missed rhizome fragments. The most effective long-term containment strategy for running bamboo is the installation of a physical rhizome barrier. This barrier must be made of a durable material, such as 80-mil thick high-density polyethylene (HDPE), which resists puncture by the sharp-tipped rhizomes.
The barrier should be installed in a vertical trench at least 24 to 30 inches deep to intercept most horizontally growing rhizomes. Leave approximately two inches of the barrier protruding above the soil line. This ensures that rhizomes attempting to grow over the top are detected. The smooth surface of the HDPE deflects advancing rhizomes upward, making them easy to spot and prune away.
Shoot control is fundamental for starving any remaining underground energy stores. Any new shoots that appear must be immediately snapped off or cut down before they unfurl their leaves and begin photosynthesis. By consistently removing these new shoots, you prevent the plant from replenishing the energy it uses to produce them, eventually exhausting the rhizomes and ensuring long-term eradication.