Armadillos are a growing concern for many homeowners, particularly in the southern United States, where their population continues to expand. The Nine-banded Armadillo (Dasypus novemcinctus) is the only species found in the country. Their habit of foraging for food causes significant damage to lawns and gardens. These creatures are effective, destructive diggers due to their powerful claws and excellent sense of smell. Addressing an armadillo problem requires a strategic approach, moving from identification to environmental modification and physical removal.
Recognizing Armadillo Activity
Identifying the precise cause of yard damage is the first step, as armadillo digging can often be mistaken for that of skunks or moles. Armadillos create two distinct types of excavations: foraging holes and larger, deeper burrows. Foraging holes are the most common sign, appearing as shallow, conical pits in the turf, typically measuring 3 to 5 inches wide and 1 to 3 inches deep, where the animal has rooted for insects.
These shallow depressions result from the animal’s nocturnal search for soil invertebrates like grubs and earthworms. A single armadillo can leave dozens of these pits across a lawn in one night, causing widespread cosmetic damage. The second, more concerning sign is the presence of a main burrow entrance, which is a larger hole often 7 to 8 inches in diameter. These burrows are usually found adjacent to structures, dense brush, or foundations, and they can extend up to 15 feet underground.
Eliminating Yard Attractants
Modifying the environment to make it less appealing is a necessary step before attempting physical removal. The primary attraction is the abundance of soil-dwelling invertebrates, which form the bulk of their diet. To reduce this food source, homeowners can apply grub control treatments, such as chemical insecticides like imidacloprid or clothianidin, typically in late spring or early summer when grubs are actively feeding.
A more biologically focused approach involves applying beneficial nematodes, specifically species like Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, which are microscopic organisms that parasitise and kill grubs. These biological controls can reduce the grub population by 50 to 75%, often enough to deter the armadillo from foraging.
Armadillos prefer soft, moist soil because it is easier to dig, especially during dry periods when they seek moisture. Adjusting irrigation schedules to water less frequently but deeply allows the soil surface to dry out between sessions, making the ground less penetrable and less attractive.
Habitat management also plays a role in prevention by removing potential shelter sites. Clearing wood piles, dense ground cover, and low-hanging vegetation near foundations eliminates the dark, secure locations where armadillos prefer to construct their main burrows.
Homeowners may also use deterrents that exploit the armadillo’s highly developed sense of smell, though these methods have limited, temporary effectiveness. Commercial granular or liquid repellents often contain castor oil, which works by coating the underground food source, making it unpalatable to the animal. These odor-based methods require frequent reapplication, especially following rain or heavy watering, to maintain effectiveness.
Strategies for Safe and Effective Removal
When environmental modifications are insufficient, physical exclusion and live trapping are the most direct methods for resolving an armadillo problem. Exclusion fencing is considered the most reliable long-term solution to prevent re-entry. An effective perimeter fence should stand at least 2 to 3 feet high and feature a buried apron that extends 12 to 18 inches deep beneath the ground, angled outward. This buried section prevents the armadillo, which is a determined digger but a poor climber, from simply burrowing under the barrier.
For immediate removal, live trapping is the preferred technique, but it must be executed correctly, as armadillos do not readily enter traps for bait. The most successful approach involves using a large, single or double-door cage trap, approximately 32 to 42 inches in length. Critically, the trap should be unbaited and placed directly along a known travel path or near an active burrow entrance.
To compensate for the armadillo’s poor eyesight and tendency to travel along barriers, the use of “wings” is essential. These are funneling guides, such as two 6-foot long boards or pieces of wire mesh, set in a V-shape to direct the animal into the trap opening. The armadillo will bump the wing and continue along the barrier until it is funneled inside.
Once an armadillo is captured, homeowners must contact their state’s fish and wildlife agency or local municipality to determine the legal protocol for handling the animal. Laws regarding the trapping and relocation of nuisance wildlife vary significantly, and in many states, it is illegal for a homeowner to transport and release a trapped armadillo off-site. Furthermore, armadillos can naturally carry Mycobacterium leprae, the bacterium that causes leprosy. Direct contact with the animal should be avoided, and professional wildlife control services should be considered if local regulations prohibit homeowner action or if there are any safety concerns.