An ant bed is the visible soil mound that serves as the entrance and ventilation system for a much larger subterranean ant colony, housing the queen, eggs, larvae, and workers. When seeking to remove these colonies, many people prefer a natural approach that avoids harsh chemical pesticides. This guide explores proven techniques that utilize common household and garden materials to safely eliminate the colony.
Fast-Acting Solutions Applied Directly to the Mound
One of the quickest ways to address an active ant bed is by physically penetrating the mound with a high volume of a lethal substance. Boiling water is a simple and immediate method, relying on thermal shock to kill the ants on contact within the nest. For the best chance of success, pour two to three gallons of freshly boiled water directly into the center of the mound opening. This volume is necessary to reach the deeper chambers where the queen and young are located, but be aware that this intense heat can also kill surrounding grass and vegetation.
A safer alternative is a dish soap and water drench. Liquid dish soap works by breaking down the waxy layer of the ant’s exoskeleton, leading to rapid dehydration and death. Mix approximately 1/4 cup of liquid dish soap into one gallon of water, then pour it slowly over the mound. This solution also helps destroy the chemical scent trails ants use for navigation.
A vinegar solution can also be used to destroy the pheromone trails ants rely on to communicate. Mixing white vinegar and water in equal parts creates a powerful disruptor that interferes with the colony’s ability to forage effectively. Soak the visible mound and surrounding area to make the nest entrance uninhabitable and mask the colony’s pathways. Applying these liquid drenches during the early morning or late evening is most effective, as more worker ants are likely to be inside the nest.
Setting Up Slow-Acting Natural Elimination Traps
Traps designed to eliminate the entire colony work by leveraging the ants’ foraging behavior to deliver a slow-acting substance directly to the queen and larvae. Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of aquatic organisms called diatoms. This substance is not a chemical poison but a mechanical insecticide; its microscopic particles abrade the ant’s exoskeleton, causing them to lose moisture and dehydrate.
For colony treatment, a thin layer of food-grade DE should be applied around the perimeter of the mound and along trails rather than directly into the entrance. The foraging worker ants must walk through the powder to pick up the abrasive particles, which they then carry back into the nest. Diatomaceous Earth must remain completely dry to function properly, so reapplication is necessary if it becomes wet. It can take 24 to 48 hours for the exposed ants to die, and longer for the full effect to be seen on the entire colony.
Another effective slow-acting method uses borax, a naturally occurring mineral salt, mixed with a sweet attractant. The bait must be weak enough that worker ants consume it and carry it back to the nest before succumbing to the toxic effect. A common liquid bait uses 1/2 teaspoon of borax mixed with 8 teaspoons of sugar dissolved in one cup of warm water. Place this mixture in shallow containers near the mound or along ant trails, allowing the borax to act as a stomach poison. The elimination process is slow, taking several days to weeks, but it targets the queen and the source of the infestation.
While cornmeal or grits are often theorized to kill ants by expanding in their stomachs, this popular notion is not supported by scientific evidence. A more reliable method is a yeast and sugar paste, which uses the fermentation process as the killing mechanism. Mixing active dry yeast with sugar and water creates a paste that attracts ants. Once ingested, the yeast releases carbon dioxide gas, which disrupts the ant’s digestive system.
Keeping Ants Away Through Prevention
Once an existing ant bed has been eliminated, long-term environmental management is necessary to prevent new colonies from establishing themselves. Maintaining a clean outdoor space is important, as ants are constantly searching for new sources of food and shelter. This involves regularly removing yard debris, such as fallen branches and piles of leaves, which can serve as nesting material or cover for new mounds.
Focusing on eliminating outdoor food sources is another effective deterrent. Ensure that outdoor pet food bowls are cleaned and stored after use, and that trash cans are sealed tightly to prevent access to discarded food waste. Any sweet spills or crumbs on patios and decks should be cleaned up immediately, as these attract foraging workers and can lead to new trail establishment.
Creating physical barriers using strong-smelling natural repellents can discourage ants from crossing certain boundaries. These repellents mask the pheromone trails ants use to navigate.
Using Natural Repellents
- Sprinkling ground cinnamon, used coffee grounds, or cayenne pepper around the perimeter of your home or garden beds.
- Placing citrus peels, particularly those from oranges or lemons, near entry points. Citrus peels contain limonene, a natural oil toxic to ants.
Finally, inspect the exterior of your home for potential entry points, even if the ant bed was in the yard. Sealing small cracks in the foundation, gaps around window frames, and utility entry points with caulk physically blocks access. This proactive step ensures that foraging ants cannot easily transition from the yard into the home structure.