The presence of gophers in a yard or garden can quickly lead to widespread damage, as these burrowing rodents create extensive tunnel networks that disrupt plant roots and compromise lawns. Their constant digging creates numerous mounds of soil, which can be frustrating for property owners attempting to maintain a manicured landscape. For those seeking to manage this issue without resorting to lethal methods, several effective, non-harmful strategies focus on deterrence, exclusion, and live removal. These humane approaches rely on understanding the gopher’s natural behavior to encourage them to relocate or to safely remove them from the premises.
Confirming the Culprit
Before implementing any control strategy, confirm that the damage is caused by a gopher, as humane methods for other burrowing animals like moles differ significantly. Gopher mounds are typically fan-shaped or horseshoe-shaped, featuring a distinct, soil-filled plug off-center where the gopher pushed dirt out of the lateral tunnel. This plugged entry point is a telltale sign of a pocket gopher, which is a rodent and a vegetarian that feeds on plant roots and tubers.
In contrast, a molehill is usually circular and volcano-shaped, with the tunnel entrance located directly in the center. Moles are insectivores, not rodents, and they create shallow, raised ridges or runways just below the surface as they hunt for worms and grubs. Misidentifying the pest means that the chosen humane method, such as a gopher-specific trap or repellent, will likely be ineffective. Correct identification is the first step toward successful, non-lethal management.
Passive Deterrents and Repellents
Passive deterrents aim to make the current habitat undesirable for the gopher, encouraging them to move on their own accord. Scent-based repellents are a common approach, utilizing odors these rodents find unpleasant, with castor oil being a widely used active ingredient. When applied to the soil, castor oil-based products penetrate the tunnel system and can taint the gopher’s food source, specifically the roots and tubers they consume.
For maximum effect, these oil-based repellents must be applied directly to the affected areas and often require reapplication, especially after heavy rainfall or irrigation, to maintain the necessary concentration in the soil. Some gardeners also attempt to use plants that naturally repel gophers, such as gopher purge (Euphorbia lathyrus), which contains a milky sap that may deter the animals. Placing strong-smelling items, such as predator scents or coffee grounds, into open tunnel entrances may also provide temporary relief.
Another category of deterrent involves vibration or sound devices, such as solar-powered sonic spikes, placed directly into the ground to emit pulses at regular intervals. The constant vibration is intended to annoy the gopher and disrupt its subterranean existence, compelling it to relocate. However, the efficacy of these sonic devices is often mixed, as gophers may habituate to the noise or tunnel around the small area of effect. These passive methods are generally most effective as a preventative measure or for small infestations.
Physical Exclusion and Barrier Methods
Physical exclusion is often considered the most reliable long-term, non-lethal method for protecting specific areas from gopher damage. This involves installing underground barriers that prevent gophers from accessing sensitive areas like garden beds or lawns. The best material for this purpose is galvanized steel hardware cloth or gopher wire mesh, preferably with openings no larger than one-half to three-quarters of an inch, which is small enough to block juvenile gophers.
For protecting an entire lawn or planting area horizontally, the mesh should be laid across the prepared soil surface and covered with at least one to one-and-a-half inches of topsoil before sod or seeds are placed. This layer of soil ensures the gopher’s snout does not immediately encounter the wire when it attempts to push upward. When creating a vertical barrier around a garden or perimeter, the wire mesh needs to be buried substantially deep, ideally at least two to three feet into the soil, with an additional six inches of mesh left above ground.
For individual high-value plants, a more localized method is to use gopher baskets, which are wire mesh containers formed to surround the root ball during planting. These baskets must be constructed from heavy-gauge, galvanized wire to ensure they do not rust out quickly and that the gopher cannot chew through the material. When installing vertical barriers, it is beneficial to create an L-shaped footer, bending the bottom of the mesh outward at a 90-degree angle to discourage the gopher from tunneling straight down and under the barrier.
Live Trapping and Humane Relocation
When deterrence and exclusion fail, active removal through live trapping offers a direct, non-lethal solution. Specialized live-catch traps, often designed as tunnel or box traps, capture the gopher without causing physical harm. The most effective placement for these traps is within the gopher’s main tunnel runway, which can be located by probing the ground eight to twelve inches from the plugged side of a fresh mound.
Once the main tunnel is opened and the trap is set inside, the gopher’s natural instinct is to rush toward the opening to plug the breach and exclude light, which triggers the trap mechanism. Because gophers are sensitive to light and cannot tolerate being confined for long periods, traps must be checked frequently, ideally every few hours, to ensure the animal’s well-being. After a successful capture, the gopher should be relocated to a suitable, non-residential area, such as a woodland or open space, at least five to ten miles away to prevent its immediate return. Consult local wildlife regulations before any relocation to ensure compliance with laws regarding the transport and release of wild animals.