How to Get Raccoons Out of Your Yard

Raccoons are intelligent, adaptable nocturnal animals common in urban and suburban yards. They thrive near human residences because they easily locate food, water, and shelter. Successfully encouraging a raccoon to leave requires a multi-step approach focused on making your yard an inconvenient place to visit. The most effective strategy combines removing attractants and installing physical barriers to block access to secure den sites.

Eliminating Common Attractants

The foundation of any successful exclusion effort is removing the primary incentives that draw raccoons: food and water. Raccoons are opportunistic omnivores with an excellent sense of smell, exploiting any accessible food source. Securing garbage is the first and most immediate action a homeowner must take to discourage nightly visits.

Garbage bins should be secured with heavy-duty bungee cords stretched over the lid and attached to the handles, or by using locking, animal-proof lids. Rinsing containers and double-bagging smelly food scraps before placing them in the bin reduces the scent trail that attracts them. Pet food left outside, especially overnight, is a readily available, high-calorie meal, so all dishes must be brought indoors before dusk.

Other overlooked food sources include bird feeders, which should be removed or switched to raccoon-resistant models, and unharvested fruit. Ripe or fallen fruit from trees and vegetable garden crops should be picked up daily. Eliminating standing water, such as an uncovered bird bath or water collecting from a leaky outdoor faucet, also removes a convenient water source.

Securing Structures and Access Points

Long-term raccoon removal is achieved through physical exclusion, preventing access to sheltered areas like decks, sheds, porches, and crawl spaces. These dark, dry locations offer ideal den sites for sleeping during the day and raising young. Preventing entry requires durable materials and specific installation techniques to counter a raccoon’s ability to climb and dig.

The most reliable method to block access under structures is the “trenching” technique, which uses heavy-gauge wire mesh. A trench should be dug around the perimeter of the structure, extending at least 12 to 18 inches deep. The exclusion material (preferably 16-gauge galvanized welded wire mesh with a 1×1-inch opening or 1/2-inch hardware cloth) is then secured to the structure’s base.

The anti-digging measure involves bending the bottom 6 to 12 inches of the mesh outward at a 90-degree angle to form an ‘L-shape’ apron. This horizontal section is buried beneath the soil, creating a subsurface barrier that deters raccoons when they attempt to dig down. All above-ground openings, such as foundation vents or gaps in siding, must also be sealed with the same heavy-gauge mesh.

Sensory Deterrents and Repellents

Once attractants are removed and physical barriers are in place, sensory deterrents can make the yard unpleasant for nocturnal visitors. These methods rely on startling or irritating the raccoon without causing harm. Motion-activated sprinklers are effective, as the sudden jet of water and sound provides a harmless shock that conditions the animal to avoid the area.

These sprinklers use Passive Infrared (PIR) sensors to detect body heat and movement, activating a burst of water that can cover a range up to 35 feet or more. Strategic placement near vulnerable areas, like a trash can storage area or a garden, teaches raccoons to associate the location with an unpleasant experience. Bright, motion-triggered floodlights can also startle them, as these nocturnal animals prefer to operate under the cover of darkness.

Scent and taste repellents work by capitalizing on the raccoon’s keen sense of smell. Commercial repellents often contain capsaicin, the compound found in chili peppers, which creates an irritating taste and smell that discourages foraging. Pungent household substances like ammonia, placed on cotton balls near an entry point, can also deter them because the strong odor mimics the scent of a predator’s urine, signaling danger.

When to Call Wildlife Control

While many raccoon issues can be resolved with exclusion and deterrents, certain situations require the expertise of a licensed wildlife control professional. If you suspect a raccoon has already entered and nested inside your home (such as in an attic, chimney, or wall void), a professional is necessary for safe and humane removal. Raccoons nesting in these areas may have young, and separating a mother from her kits can lead to extensive damage as she tries to re-enter.

Professionals are also knowledgeable about local regulations regarding wildlife. Live-trapping and relocating raccoons is often regulated or prohibited in many jurisdictions due to the risk of spreading disease or the low survival rate of relocated animals. A wildlife expert can also identify and safely handle a raccoon that appears sick, exhibiting unusual behavior like staggering, vocalizing, or being active during the day, which could signal diseases such as distemper or rabies.