Lilies, such as the popular Asiatic, Oriental, and Trumpet varieties, are perennial flowers that return to the garden yearly with stunning blooms. Their success relies heavily on specific post-flowering maintenance, which ensures the underground bulb stores sufficient energy during its recovery phase. This process redirects the plant’s resources from reproduction back into the long-term storage organ, guaranteeing a vibrant display the following season.
Immediate Care After Flowering
The first action after the petals drop is to remove the spent flower head, a process known as deadheading. This immediate removal prevents the plant from using energy to form seeds in a developing seed pod. Stopping this reproductive effort channels the plant’s energy reserves directly toward the bulb.
When deadheading, use clean shears or pinch off the faded bloom, cutting only the part of the stem that held the flower. Leave the long, green foliage and the rest of the stem completely intact. The leaves act as solar panels, conducting photosynthesis to create the carbohydrates necessary for the bulb’s survival and future flowering. Removing this green growth too early will starve the underground bulb and severely reduce the chance of blooming the following year.
Fueling the Bulb for Next Season
The period immediately following flowering is when the bulb actively rebuilds its energy stores for the next season. This recovery phase lasts until the foliage naturally yellows and requires focused attention on nutrition and environmental conditions. Lilies are considered heavy feeders, and supplemental nutrients help them generate the maximum amount of energy for storage.
Fertilizing during this phase should focus on formulas low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen encourages leafy growth, which is not the goal during bulb-fueling. Phosphorus supports root development, and potassium aids in strengthening the bulb for winter dormancy. A fertilizer with an NPK ratio such as 5-10-10 or 3-5-5 is suitable for this post-bloom feeding.
Apply a phosphorus-rich fertilizer every few weeks until the end of the growing season, typically late summer or early fall. Ensure the plant receives a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily, as light is the power source for carbohydrate production. Consistent soil moisture is also necessary during this time, so water regularly, ensuring the soil remains moist but never saturated to prevent bulb rot.
Preparing Lilies for Dormancy
As the season progresses toward late fall, the foliage will naturally begin to yellow and brown, signaling that the energy storage phase is complete. This color change indicates the plant has successfully transferred all usable nutrients from the stem and leaves down into the bulb. Only when the stem and leaves have turned completely yellow or brown should they be cut back.
Cutting the stem back to a few inches above the soil level prepares the plant for winter rest. In colder climates, where the ground can freeze and thaw repeatedly, lily bulbs benefit from a protective layer of mulch. Applying a generous layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, helps insulate the soil and prevents the bulb from being pushed out of the ground by frost heaving. This protection ensures the bulb remains stable until spring growth begins.
Troubleshooting Common Non-Bloom Issues
Even with proper post-bloom care, a lily may fail to produce flowers due to issues related to planting or crowding. One common structural problem is insufficient planting depth, as lily bulbs need to be set deep enough to keep them cool and anchored. Shallowly planted bulbs can experience temperature fluctuations that inhibit proper development.
Another frequent cause of bloom failure is bulb overcrowding, which happens when the mother bulb produces many smaller bulblets over time. If the lily clump has been in the same location for three to five years and produces only leaves, it is time for division. Digging up the clump, separating the smaller bulbs, and replanting them with proper spacing will revitalize the patch and encourage flowering. Young or immature bulbs often skip blooming in their first year as they focus on establishing a strong root system and building energy reserves for future growth.