Seeing patches of straw-colored turf instead of a lush green carpet is a common frustration for homeowners. This “burnt grass” appearance is typically caused by acute stress from extreme heat, drought, or chemical exposure, such as fertilizer or pet waste. These brown areas indicate the grass blades have dried out or the plant is reacting to a high concentration of salts in the soil. Whether the grass is merely dormant or truly dead, specific steps can restore your lawn’s vibrant green color.
Determining if the Grass is Recoverable
The first step is to accurately assess the damage to determine if the grass needs revival or replacement. A simple “tug test” is the most effective way to distinguish between a recoverable, dormant lawn and a completely dead section. Gently pull on a few brown blades of grass in the affected area to see if they resist being pulled out.
If the grass offers resistance and stays firmly rooted, it is likely dormant, meaning the crown and roots are still alive. The plant has shut down top growth to conserve energy. A closer look at the crown should reveal a firm, pale white or green color. If the blades pull out easily, the roots and crown are shriveled, brown, or brittle, indicating the plant has died and cannot be revived.
Dead grass often appears in distinct spots or streaks, pointing to issues like pet urine or uneven fertilizer application. Uniform browning across the entire lawn, especially during a prolonged heatwave, is more characteristic of drought-induced dormancy. The strategy you employ—immediate care or full renovation—depends on the result of this initial viability check.
Immediate Care for Damaged Grass
If your assessment confirms the grass is still alive but stressed, the most immediate action is to flush the area with water, particularly if chemical burn is suspected. Excess nitrogen or soluble salts from over-fertilization or dog urine pull water out of the grass roots, causing desiccation. Deeply saturate the soil with about an inch of water daily for up to a week to dilute these salts and push them below the root zone.
For heat-stressed or drought-dormant grass, shift to a deep, infrequent watering schedule to encourage recovery. Soak the lawn to deliver moisture to the lower root system, aiming for about one inch of water in a single session, instead of light daily sprinkles. Watering early in the morning minimizes evaporation and allows the grass blades to dry before nightfall, reducing the risk of fungal disease.
To aid water penetration in compacted areas, light aeration or dethatching can be beneficial without disturbing weakened roots. Use a garden fork or a dethatching rake to gently open the soil surface, especially in high-traffic zones. This allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the surviving root crowns, supporting the plant’s return to active growth.
Lawn Renovation for Dead Patches
For areas confirmed to be completely dead, the only solution is a full renovation, starting with the removal of the lifeless material. Use a stiff rake or a power rake to thoroughly clear the dead grass and thatch layer, exposing the underlying soil. This removal is necessary because the dead debris prevents new seed from making direct contact with the soil, which is essential for germination.
Next, prepare the seedbed by lightly cultivating the top half-inch of soil with a rake to create a loose texture. Incorporating a thin layer of organic compost or a quality topsoil amendment will improve soil structure and provide initial nutrients for the new seedlings. Smooth the soil surface and lightly tamp it down to ensure a stable base for the new seed.
Select a grass seed variety appropriate for your climate, considering factors like sun exposure and drought tolerance. Spread the seed evenly over the patch, applying half the amount walking in one direction and the other half perpendicularly to ensure uniform coverage. Keep the seeded areas consistently moist with light, frequent watering until the new grass establishes itself.
Long-Term Strategies to Avoid Future Burns
Preventing future grass burn requires modifying maintenance practices to build a more resilient lawn. Adjust your mower to one of its highest settings; taller grass provides natural shade for the soil, helping to retain moisture and keep the root zone cooler. Adhere to the “one-third rule,” which dictates that you should never remove more than one-third of the grass blade’s height in a single mowing session.
When applying nutrients, switch to slow-release granular fertilizers, which feed the lawn gradually over six to eight weeks, reducing the risk of nitrogen salt buildup and burn. Avoid fertilizing during peak summer heat or when the grass is already stressed and dormant, as chemical burn is most likely to occur then. Always calibrate your spreader and sweep any spilled granules off hard surfaces before watering, since concentrated piles can cause localized burning.
For managing pet waste, a common cause of circular burn spots, the immediate dilution of urine is effective. Immediately soak the area where a pet has urinated with a generous amount of water to dilute the high concentration of nitrogen and salts. Alternatively, consider training your pet to use a designated area of the yard or planting urine-resistant varieties of grass in susceptible zones.