The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is celebrated for producing large, trumpet-shaped blooms, often in late fall or winter. These tropical bulbs are frequently purchased as a holiday novelty, providing vibrant indoor color. While the initial bloom is simple, convincing the Amaryllis to flower again in subsequent years requires understanding its natural growth cycle. Successfully re-blooming the bulb involves providing specific, sequential environmental cues, transitioning from blooming to foliage growth, and then a necessary period of rest.
Forcing the Initial Bloom: Planting and Watering
To initiate the first bloom, proper planting is necessary. Select a heavy container with drainage holes that is only slightly wider than the bulb, as the Amaryllis prefers being pot-bound. Plant the bulb in well-draining soil, ensuring one-third of the bulb remains visible above the soil line. After planting, provide one thorough initial watering to settle the roots and potting medium.
Place the potted bulb in a warm area with direct sunlight, maintaining a temperature around 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit to encourage flower stem development. After the initial soak, hold back on watering until new growth (a flower stalk or leaves) is clearly visible. Overwatering before growth is established can cause the bulb to rot. Once the flower buds show color, move the plant out of intense sunlight to a cooler location to prolong the bloom period.
Post-Bloom Care: Transitioning to Foliage Growth
Once the flowers have faded, remove the spent blossoms to prevent seed formation, which diverts energy needed for next year’s bloom. Do not remove the hollow flower stalk until it turns yellow, as the green stalk performs photosynthesis and generates food reserves. Cut the stalk off about an inch above the bulb’s neck once it has fully yellowed.
This phase, lasting through spring and summer, maximizes foliage health and fattens the bulb. Preserve the long leaves, as they are the plant’s solar panels for energy storage. Place the Amaryllis in the sunniest possible location, moving it outdoors after the threat of frost has passed to utilize natural light. During this active growing season, increase watering and fertilization to replenish the bulb’s depleted reserves.
Water the plant deeply whenever the top two inches of soil feel dry, allowing the excess to drain completely. Fertilize monthly with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 formula, to support vigorous leaf growth. Consistent feeding and high light exposure determine the size and number of flowers the bulb can produce the following season. Bring the plant back indoors before the first fall frost to prepare for the next step.
The Essential Rest Period: Inducing Dormancy
The Amaryllis requires a cold, dry rest period, or dormancy, to reset its internal clock and initiate flower bud formation. This process typically begins in late summer or early fall (around September) and is necessary for reliable re-blooming. Gradually discontinue watering and cease fertilization to signal the end of the growing season. This withholding of resources forces the leaves to yellow and wilt naturally.
Once the foliage has fully yellowed, trim the dead leaves down to one to two inches above the bulb. The potted bulb must then be moved to a cool, dark, and dry location for its mandatory rest. Ideal temperatures range between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, such as in an unheated basement or cool closet. Do not water the bulb during this time, as moisture can lead to rot and prevent proper dormancy.
The induced rest must last a minimum of eight weeks; ten to twelve weeks is often more effective for a robust re-bloom. Periodically inspect the bulb for mold or premature new growth. If the bulb sprouts during dormancy, move it immediately to a warm, bright location to begin the re-blooming process early. Completion of this cool, dry rest is required for the bulb to transition stored energy into a new flower stalk.
Timing and Techniques for Re-blooming
After the eight to twelve week dormancy period, the bulb is ready to be “woken up” to start the new flowering cycle. Determine the precise timing for ending dormancy by counting backward from the desired bloom date, as flowering takes four to eight weeks from waking. If the bulb has not been repotted in three to four years, remove it, brush off the old soil, and repot it with fresh, well-draining medium.
To signal the end of rest, move the potted bulb into a warm environment, ideally 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the pot in a bright location and give it one thorough, deep watering to saturate the soil and stimulate root activity. After this initial watering, return to a sparing schedule, only watering when the top inch of soil is dry.
The appearance of a new flower stalk or leaves signals that the bulb is actively growing. The flower stalk typically emerges first, though leaves may appear initially. Once new growth is visible, resume regular watering and consider beginning a light fertilization schedule. The new flower stalk will grow rapidly, resulting in a bloom approximately one to two months after the bulb was awakened.