The Amaryllis is a tropical bulb that has become a popular winter-blooming houseplant, especially around the holidays. Its large, trumpet-shaped flowers are spectacular, but many growers discard the plant once the blooms fade, believing it is a one-time affair. Successfully coaxing this plant to flower again requires understanding its natural cycle, which involves a period of intense growth followed by a cool, dry rest. Replicating this cycle is the challenge home growers must master to enjoy the plant’s vibrant display year after year.
Immediate Care After Flowering
Once the flowers have faded and begun to wilt, remove the spent blossoms to prevent the plant from wasting energy on seed production. Snip off the individual flowers, but leave the tall, thick flower stalk intact for the time being. While green, the stalk is capable of photosynthesis and continues to generate energy for the bulb. Only when the stalk yellows and softens should it be cut, about one to two inches above the neck of the bulb.
The long, strap-like leaves must be preserved, as they are the plant’s primary energy factories for the next several months. Do not cut the foliage, even if it appears long or messy. These leaves are responsible for converting sunlight into stored energy, which the bulb needs to form a new flower bud for the subsequent bloom cycle.
Maximizing Growth During Summer
After the blooms are gone, the Amaryllis must enter its growing phase to bulk up its energy reserves. Place the potted plant in the sunniest location possible indoors, such as a south-facing window, or move it outdoors once the danger of the last frost has passed in spring. When transitioning outdoors, gradually acclimate the plant to direct sunlight over a week to prevent scorching.
During the active growth season, the bulb requires consistent watering and fertilization. Water the plant thoroughly only when the top one to two inches of soil feel dry to the touch, ensuring the pot drains completely to prevent root rot. To maximize energy storage, apply a water-soluble fertilizer every two to four weeks throughout the summer months. The fertilizer should be either a balanced formula or one with a higher phosphorus content, such as a 10-20-15 ratio, since phosphorus is essential for flower bud formation and energy transfer.
Initiating the Dormancy Period
The Amaryllis requires a rest period to trigger the formation of new flower buds, mimicking its natural dry season. This phase should begin in late summer or early fall, generally around September, to time a winter bloom. To initiate dormancy, cease all watering and fertilization completely.
The leaves will naturally begin to yellow, wither, and die back as the bulb draws the remaining stored energy from them. This yellowing signals that the bulb is entering its necessary rest. Once the foliage is completely dry and brown, it can be trimmed off about an inch or two above the bulb’s neck.
The bulb should then be stored in a cool, dark, and dry environment for a minimum of eight to ten weeks, with the ideal temperature range being 50 to 55°F. A basement, garage, or unheated closet can work well, provided the temperature remains consistently within this range and does not drop below freezing. This cool rest period signals the bulb to prepare for flowering, and a sufficient duration is necessary for successful reblooming.
Reawakening the Bulb for Bloom
After the required eight to twelve weeks of cool, dark dormancy, the bulb is ready to begin its new growth cycle. To time a specific bloom, such as for the holidays, count backward six to ten weeks from the desired flowering date to determine the “wake-up” day. If the bulb has been stored out of its pot, repot it in fresh, well-draining soil, ensuring the top third of the bulb remains exposed above the soil line.
Place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light and a warmer temperature, ideally between 68 to 77°F. Initial watering should be done sparingly, providing just one thorough drink to settle the soil. After this first watering, withhold further moisture until a new flower stalk or new leaves become visibly apparent.
The flower stalk usually emerges before the new leaves, indicating a successful transition out of dormancy. If only leaves appear without a flower stalk, it often means the bulb did not store enough energy during its summer growth phase or the dormancy period was too short to properly trigger the bloom cycle. Once new growth is established, increase the watering frequency and begin to fertilize again to support the developing bloom.