Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, often sold as Florist’s Kalanchoe or Flaming Katy, is a popular succulent houseplant prized for its thick, waxy leaves and clusters of bright, long-lasting flowers. Owners often find that the plant does not rebloom easily without intervention. Successfully forcing a second bloom requires careful manipulation of light and temperature, as the plant’s flowering is regulated by its environment. By replicating the specific seasonal conditions this native Madagascan plant requires, you can guide it into a new flowering cycle.
Essential Growing Conditions
Maintaining a healthy plant is the foundational step before attempting to force a rebloom. As a succulent, the Kalanchoe stores water in its fleshy leaves, making it highly susceptible to root rot from overwatering. Water the plant thoroughly only once the top two inches of the potting mix have completely dried out, which may be every two to three weeks indoors.
The plant thrives in a well-draining soil medium, such as a commercial cactus or succulent mix, which prevents water from pooling around the roots. Kalanchoes require bright, indirect light throughout the day; a south or west-facing window often provides ideal conditions. Insufficient light causes stems to become elongated and “leggy” as the plant stretches toward the nearest light source.
Initiating the Bloom Cycle
Successfully triggering a rebloom relies on mimicking the short-day, long-night conditions of a natural winter cycle. This process is governed by photoperiodism, which dictates that the plant will not set flower buds until it experiences an extended period of darkness each day. The most reliable method to initiate flowering is to provide 12 to 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness daily for six to eight weeks.
Shield the plant from all light sources, including subtle artificial light from streetlights or household lamps, which can interrupt the chemical signals that trigger bud formation. A practical approach is to place the pot inside a light-proof closet or cover the entire plant with an opaque cardboard box or bucket from late afternoon until morning. This routine must be maintained for the minimum six-week duration, or until small flower buds begin to form.
A cool rest period alongside the light treatment encourages bud development, as the plant interprets these conditions as a seasonal change. Nighttime temperatures should be lowered to 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (13 to 16 degrees Celsius) during the light-exclusion phase. While the plant is resting, significantly reduce watering and temporarily stop all fertilization.
Once the first flower buds are visible, the light treatment can be discontinued, and the plant can be returned to its normal, bright location. Resume a standard watering schedule at this point; the new buds will open in the following weeks. After the six-to-eight-week period, the plant has amassed the necessary energy to produce blooms.
Care After Flowering
Once the current display of flowers begins to fade, maintenance is necessary to prepare the Kalanchoe for new growth and future reblooming. The first step is deadheading, which is the removal of spent flower heads. Use clean shears or your fingers to pinch off the dried or browning blooms, cutting back to the base of the flower stem.
Following deadheading, the plant benefits from light pruning to maintain its shape and encourage a bushier structure. Trim the flower-producing stems back to a point just above the second or third leaf node. This action stimulates new side shoots, which leads to more potential flowering sites during the next cycle.
If the plant has become long and sparse, remove up to a third of the stem length to rejuvenate the overall shape. After maintenance, return the Kalanchoe to its bright, indirect light location and resume the regular watering and feeding regimen used during its active growth phase. This period allows the plant to recover and store energy until you are ready to repeat the environmental manipulation for the next forced bloom.