Groundhogs, also known as woodchucks, are large rodents whose presence is often first noticed by the extensive damage they cause through burrowing behavior. A single groundhog can excavate a complex tunnel system that may extend up to 30 feet long and 5 feet deep beneath the surface. This activity displaces significant soil, which can compromise the structural integrity of foundations, decks, and concrete slabs. Beyond structural concerns, groundhogs are voracious herbivores that quickly destroy home gardens, landscaping, and crops, making prompt and effective removal a necessity for homeowners.
Non-Lethal Methods for Encouraging Relocation
Homeowners can first attempt to make the groundhog’s current burrow location unappealing using sensory deterrents. Groundhogs possess a strong sense of smell, and pungent odors effectively encourage them to leave their established den. One common tactic involves soaking rags in ammonia and placing them inside a punctured plastic bag near the burrow entrance. This allows the strong, irritating fumes to permeate the tunnel system.
Another effective scent-based repellent involves a mixture of castor oil and water, often combined with dish soap to help it adhere to the soil. When applied around the burrow and garden perimeter, the oil’s strong scent signals that the area is undesirable for foraging. Predator urine, such as that from a fox or coyote, can also be purchased and applied to simulate the presence of a threat.
Physical and auditory disturbances can also be employed to create an environment that feels unstable. Solar-powered vibrating stakes, designed for burrowing pests, emit low-frequency vibrations into the ground. These vibrations mimic the seismic activity of a predator, causing the groundhog to feel unsafe in its burrow.
Motion-activated water sprinklers, which deliver a sudden, startling burst of water, offer another non-lethal form of harassment. When using these sensory methods, maintain consistency and reapply scents or relocate devices every few days. This prevents the groundhog from becoming accustomed to the disturbance.
Safe and Effective Live Trapping Techniques
If non-lethal deterrents fail, live trapping remains the most direct method for removing a groundhog. The ideal live trap is a sturdy cage measuring approximately 10 by 12 by 32 inches, large enough to contain the animal without causing harm. To increase success, bait the trap with fresh, appealing produce, such as cantaloupe slices, apples, or carrots. Place the bait near the trigger plate to ensure the groundhog must fully enter the trap.
Position the trap on a level surface 5 to 10 feet from the main burrow entrance, which is the groundhog’s typical travel path. Groundhogs are wary of new objects, so camouflage the cage with natural materials like leaves or brush. Always wear gloves when handling the trap or bait to prevent transferring human scent, which can deter the animal. It is recommended to leave the trap unset for a few days, allowing the groundhog to become comfortable entering before setting the trigger.
Once captured, check local and state wildlife regulations regarding the relocation of nuisance animals. Relocating wildlife is often regulated due to the potential spread of disease or the difficulty the animal has establishing itself in a new territory. If permitted, the animal must be transported at least 5 to 10 miles away to prevent its return. Traps must be checked frequently, ideally at least once every 24 hours, to prevent the animal from suffering from stress, dehydration, or exposure.
Securing the Area to Prevent Re-Entry
After the groundhog has been successfully removed, secure the area to prevent another animal from taking up residence. The empty burrow must be properly filled; simply shoving dirt into the hole is not sufficient, as a new groundhog can easily dig it out. Instead, fill the tunnel system with material that makes future excavation difficult, such as gravel, crushed rock, or a mixture of soil and concrete rubble.
The most effective long-term prevention involves installing a physical barrier around vulnerable structures like sheds, decks, and foundations. Fencing should be made of heavy-gauge wire mesh or hardware cloth and must be at least 3 feet high. To prevent burrowing underneath, the bottom edge of the mesh must be buried at least 10 to 12 inches deep.
Bend the buried portion of the wire outward at a 90-degree angle to create an L-shape facing away from the structure. This L-shaped flange acts as an underground deterrent; the groundhog encounters the horizontal barrier when attempting to dig under the fence and abandons the effort. The upper 15 inches of the fence can also be angled outward to prevent the groundhog from climbing over the top.