Succulents are popular due to their unique shapes and ability to thrive in harsh conditions. Although resilient, these plants require a specific environment to remain healthy. When a succulent struggles, the cause is almost always an imbalance in its immediate surroundings. Correcting the issue requires accurately identifying the problem, which often relates to water, light, or soil composition.
Diagnosing and Treating Water-Related Damage
Watering errors are the most frequent cause of succulent distress, resulting in rot from overwatering or dehydration. Overwatering causes plant cells to burst, leading to soft, mushy, translucent leaves, sometimes turning yellow or black due to fungal rot. If the stem is affected by dark, rotting tissue, the only way to save the plant is to perform a “beheading.” Cut the healthy stem section well above the rot line, allow the severed top to callus, and then replant it in dry, fresh soil to root.
Conversely, an underwatered succulent consumes its own stored moisture, causing the leaves to become wrinkled, shriveled, and feel soft or rubbery. The shriveling often begins with the oldest leaves at the bottom of the plant. The solution is a deep, thorough soaking until water flows from the drainage hole, ensuring the entire root ball is saturated. Allow the plant to dry out completely before the next deep watering.
Correcting Light Imbalances
The amount of light a succulent receives directly affects its growth pattern and overall health. Insufficient light triggers etiolation, where the plant elongates dramatically, stretching toward the nearest light source. This results in pale, weak growth with widely spaced leaves, permanently altering the plant’s compact form. The stretched growth cannot revert to its original shape, but the plant can be saved by moving it to a brighter location or supplementing with a grow light.
When moving a light-deprived plant, acclimate it gradually to prevent sunburn. Too much intense, direct light, especially if introduced suddenly, can cause sunburn, appearing as white, brown, or black scorched patches on the leaves. Scorched tissue is permanent and will not heal, though the plant can survive and grow new, healthy leaves. To prevent further damage, move the plant immediately to a location with less intense light or provide shade during the hottest part of the day. Gradual exposure, such as increasing sun time by 30 minutes every few days, allows the plant to build up protective pigments.
Addressing Soil and Root Problems
The soil medium plays a significant role in preventing root failure. Standard organic potting soil holds moisture, which is detrimental to succulents and easily leads to rot. A proper succulent mix must be fast-draining and highly porous to mimic their arid, gritty natural environments. An optimal medium is composed of approximately one-third organic material and two-thirds mineral grit. Mineral components like perlite, pumice, coarse sand, or chicken grit enhance drainage and aeration, preventing root suffocation.
Over time, even specialized soil can compact, restricting water flow and hindering root health. When repotting, gently remove the old, compacted soil and inspect the roots for signs of damage or decay. Any dark, brittle, or mushy roots should be trimmed away with sterile scissors. Repotting into a fresh, gritty mix with adequate drainage holes ensures optimal root health and proper water management.
Pest Management and Saving Infected Plants
Succulents are occasionally targeted by pests, most commonly mealybugs and scale insects. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses found in leaf crevices or on the undersides of leaves. These pests suck the sap from the plant, causing discoloration and distorted growth. Upon identification, the infested plant should be immediately isolated to prevent the spread of pests to other plants.
For localized infestations, individual pests can be removed by touching them directly with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol dissolves their protective waxy coating, killing them on contact. For a more widespread problem, spray the entire plant liberally with a solution of one part isopropyl alcohol mixed with one part water and a few drops of mild dish soap. After treatment, keep the plant out of direct sunlight until the solution has evaporated to prevent leaf burn. If an infestation is severe, has reached the roots, or is resistant to treatment, disposing of the plant is often the most practical choice to safeguard the rest of a collection.