How to Fix Root Rot in a Fiddle Leaf Fig

The Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) is a popular houseplant, but it is often considered temperamental. The most common issue owners face is root rot, a condition that rapidly compromises the plant’s health. This problem occurs when the roots are deprived of oxygen due to persistently waterlogged soil, allowing fungal and bacterial pathogens to thrive and attack the root system. These pathogens cause the roots to decay, preventing the plant from absorbing the water and nutrients it needs to survive. Addressing root rot quickly is essential to preventing the plant’s decline.

Recognizing the Signs of Root Rot

Confirming the diagnosis requires observing visual cues. The initial signs of root rot frequently appear on the leaves, where the plant is struggling to transport resources due to damaged roots. Look for browning or blackening spots, often starting near the base of the leaf or scattered across the surface. Affected leaves may also appear limp or dull, and sudden, excessive leaf drop indicates the root system is failing.

The soil itself can offer clues, remaining visibly wet for days after watering, and sometimes emitting a foul, sour, or musty odor due to anaerobic decay. The definitive check requires gently removing the plant from its pot to inspect the root ball. Healthy Ficus lyrata roots are firm, pliable, and typically white or light tan. Roots suffering from rot appear dark brown or black, feel soft and mushy, and may easily separate from the main stem.

Step-by-Step Root Rot Treatment

The first step involves carefully extracting the plant from its container to access the root ball. Gently loosen and remove as much of the old, sodden potting mix as possible, using a gentle stream of water to rinse away the clinging soil. This washing allows for a clear inspection of the root structure.

Using sterilized shears or scissors, systematically trim away all affected root tissue. Only firm, healthy, white or light-colored root material should remain; dark, mushy, or slimy sections must be completely removed to halt the spread of infection. Sterilizing the cutting tool between snips with rubbing alcohol prevents reintroducing pathogens to the healthy tissue.

To treat any remaining microscopic pathogens, soak or spray the roots with a diluted treatment solution. A common home remedy is a mixture of 3% hydrogen peroxide, diluted at a ratio of one part peroxide to four parts water. Hydrogen peroxide releases an oxygen molecule that helps kill anaerobic fungi and bacteria, providing temporary aeration to the compromised roots.

After trimming and treating the root ball, the plant must be repotted into a clean environment. Thoroughly wash the old pot with a bleach or hydrogen peroxide solution to sterilize it, or choose a new container of a similar size. Using the old, contaminated soil is not recommended, as it harbors the pathogens that caused the initial rot.

Essential Post-Treatment Care and Prevention

Successful recovery depends on providing the plant with an optimal environment that discourages future water retention. Repotting must be done using a fresh, fast-draining potting mix that incorporates large, chunky amendments. Standard potting soil should be amended with materials like perlite, orchid bark, or horticultural charcoal to ensure adequate drainage and create air pockets for oxygen exchange.

The newly repotted Ficus lyrata should be placed in a location receiving bright, indirect light. Adequate light aids the plant’s energy production and ability to recover. Adequate light also helps the soil dry out more quickly, which is an essential factor in preventing the return of root rot. The plant should also be kept away from cold drafts or heating vents to avoid unnecessary environmental stress.

Following the repotting, resist the urge to water immediately. The soil should be allowed to dry out significantly, often for a week or more, to give the trimmed roots a chance to callus and heal. Going forward, adopt a mindful watering schedule, only giving water when the top two to three inches of soil are dry to the touch. This practice ensures the roots receive the oxygen they require between watering sessions.