The stretching or legginess seen in succulents is a common condition called etiolation. This is the plant’s response to insufficient light, causing the stem to rapidly elongate as the plant searches for a light source. While the stretched growth cannot be reversed, the issue is fixable, allowing the succulent to return to its compact, healthy form. The process involves physical intervention to correct the damage and environmental changes to prevent recurrence.
Identifying Etiolation and Its Cause
Etiolation is immediately noticeable because it drastically changes a succulent’s characteristic compact shape. A healthy succulent, particularly one that forms a rosette, has leaves tightly packed together with no visible stem. When etiolation occurs, the stem becomes visibly elongated, creating wide gaps between the leaves.
The leaves may also appear paler or less vibrant due to reduced chlorophyll production, a sign of light deprivation. In some species, the leaves may curl downward to increase the surface area available to capture light. This stretched, weaker growth is the direct result of the plant’s survival mechanism to reach adequate light for photosynthesis.
The cause of this phenomenon is light deprivation, meaning the plant is not receiving the required intensity or duration of light. Succulents, adapted to bright, arid environments, interpret low light levels as a signal to grow quickly toward the nearest light source. This rapid growth produces thin, weak stems and sparsely distributed leaves because the plant expends energy reserves on vertical growth rather than structural strength.
Corrective Action: Pruning and Propagation
Once a succulent has stretched, the elongated growth is permanent and will not revert to a compact form, even if light conditions improve. The only way to restore the plant’s appearance is through “beheading” or pruning, which removes the damaged section to allow for fresh, healthy growth. This physical intervention is the most effective way to address the problem.
Begin by sterilizing a sharp knife or pair of scissors to ensure a clean cut and prevent the introduction of pathogens. Locate a point on the stem several inches below the compact top rosette, but still on the stretched section. Cut the stem completely, separating the healthy top section from the elongated base.
After the cut, remove a few of the lowest leaves from the severed top section, leaving one to two inches of clean stem beneath the rosette. This stem section is necessary for new roots to form. The cut end of the rosette must then be placed in a dry, bright location out of direct sun for several days to a week. This period allows the open wound to “callus” or dry out, forming a protective layer that prevents rot when the cutting is planted.
Once a dry, hardened scab has formed on the cut end, the rosette cutting is ready to be planted in fresh, well-draining succulent soil. Do not water the cutting immediately; wait until new roots emerge (which can take several weeks to a few months) before starting a regular watering schedule. Meanwhile, the original rooted stem left in the pot can be left alone, as it will often sprout new, compact plants from the remaining nodes.
Preventing Future Stretching
Addressing the long-term cause of etiolation requires a permanent adjustment to the plant’s environment, focusing on adequate light intensity and duration. Succulents require a minimum of four to six hours of bright, direct light daily to maintain their compact structure. If the plant is kept indoors, the light coming through a window is significantly weaker than outdoor sunlight, which is an important consideration for placement.
The best indoor location is an unobstructed south-facing window, which provides the most intense light for the longest period in the Northern Hemisphere. If natural light is insufficient, supplemental lighting from a grow light is the most reliable solution. Grow lights should be positioned directly above the plant’s canopy to mimic the sun and ensure uniform light distribution.
When moving a succulent from a low-light area to a brighter spot, introduce the stronger light gradually to prevent sun damage. The leaves of a light-starved plant can easily scorch if suddenly exposed to intense, direct sun. Acclimate the succulent by increasing its light exposure incrementally over several days or a week, which protects the plant’s delicate surface cells from burn.