The art of espalier involves training a tree to grow flat against a wall, fence, or trellis, creating a two-dimensional form. This ancient horticultural technique maximizes garden space and transforms a fruit tree into a living architectural feature. Pear trees are well-suited for this method because they are spur-bearing, producing fruit on short, permanent structures called spurs. Their new growth is also relatively supple, allowing it to be manipulated and tied to a horizontal support structure with less risk of snapping. This training redirects the tree’s energy into lateral branches, enhancing fruit production and simplifying harvesting.
Site and Tree Selection Requirements
The success of a pear tree espalier begins with thoughtful placement and material selection. Your chosen site must receive a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily to ensure adequate fruit development and ripening. If planting against an existing wall or fence, a south-facing or west-facing exposure is often ideal for maximizing solar gain, which can create a beneficial microclimate.
Choose a young, single-stemmed sapling, often called a whip. A dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock, such as Quince A or Quince C, is necessary to control the final size of the espalier. For the fruiting variety (scion), cultivars like ‘Conference’ or ‘Doyenne du Comice’ are excellent choices due to their reliable habits and compatibility with Quince rootstocks. Plant the tree six to ten inches away from the vertical surface to allow for essential air circulation, which helps prevent fungal diseases.
Building the Espalier Support Structure
A permanent and sturdy support framework must be installed before planting the tree to guide the branches into their flat plane. The structure typically consists of durable wooden posts or metal uprights set firmly into the ground, often secured with concrete for long-term stability. These posts will support horizontal wires that the branches will be tied to and trained along.
The wires should be galvanized or stainless steel, spaced vertically at intervals of approximately 18 inches for tiered designs. Tension the wires using turnbuckles attached to the end posts; this allows for periodic tightening as the tree grows and the wires naturally sag.
The entire framework must be positioned six to eight inches away from the wall or fence. This consistent air gap between the tree’s foliage and the solid backing is critical. This separation prevents heat buildup that could scorch leaves and encourages quick drying after rain, which reduces disease pressure.
Year One: Initial Training and Branch Establishment
The first year of training establishes the permanent, two-dimensional structure of the espalier. After planting the whip in front of the center post, make a severe cut to the central leader during the dormant season. This heading cut should be made just above a bud that is about an inch higher than the first horizontal wire.
This pruning removes apical dominance, encouraging the two buds below the cut to grow laterally. As these side shoots emerge in the spring, select the two strongest ones growing in the plane of the wires to form the first tier. Initially, train these chosen shoots at a slight upward angle (42 to 45 degrees) by tying them loosely to diagonal bamboo canes or stakes. Training them at an angle temporarily maintains their vigor and encourages strong growth.
Throughout the growing season, any other shoots emerging from the central trunk or side branches should be rubbed off immediately or pinched back to three to four leaves to suppress their growth.
Once the two angled shoots have stiffened and reached about 30 inches (typically mid-to-late summer), carefully lower them to the horizontal wire and secure them with soft ties. This horizontal positioning signals the branch to slow its length growth and begin developing fruit spurs. The shoot emerging from the topmost bud, which becomes the new central leader, should be tied vertically to the post to begin the next tier’s development.
Ongoing Annual Pruning and Shaping
Maintaining the precise shape of an espalier requires a two-part annual pruning schedule, divided between the dormant and growing seasons. Dormant pruning, performed in late winter or early spring before bud break, focuses on structural extension and creating the next horizontal tier. Following the first year’s procedure, the vertical leader is cut back just above the next wire to stimulate two new lateral shoots.
Summer Pruning
Summer pruning manages vigor and promotes the transformation of leafy shoots into fruit-bearing spurs. Beginning in late July or August, any new shoots growing directly from the horizontal arms are pruned back to just three leaves beyond the basal cluster. This technique diverts the tree’s energy from leaf production toward developing flower buds on the remaining shortened wood.
For established espaliers that have reached their desired height, the central leader is removed entirely during the dormant season. This permanently sets the final tier and directs all subsequent growth into the fruiting wood.