The process of drying, or curing, garlic transforms the freshly harvested, moist bulb into a long-storing commodity. Curing allows the outer wrappers to dry and constrict, effectively sealing the bulb and concentrating the flavor within the cloves. This physiological process protects the garlic from moisture loss and the entry of pathogens, ensuring the bulb’s viability over many months.
Immediate Post-Harvest Preparation
Handling the bulbs gently immediately after lifting them from the soil is important for long-term storage potential. First, carefully remove large clumps of soil by gently brushing them off. Avoid washing the bulbs with water, as introducing moisture compromises the curing process and encourages fungal growth.
Bulbs that sustain damage or bruising during harvest should be set aside for immediate use, as their broken protective wrappers significantly shorten their shelf life.
For softneck varieties, tie the pliable stems into small bundles of 8 to 12 bulbs at this stage. Hardneck varieties, with their stiff central stalks, are typically handled individually or loosely bunched.
The Curing Environment and Process
Curing draws out remaining moisture from the stems, roots, and bulb neck, hardening the outer layers. The ideal environment requires excellent air circulation, often achieved using electric fans or a naturally breezy location. A moderate temperature, between 75 and 85°F (24–30°C), facilitates drying without causing physiological damage. Relative humidity should be maintained between 50 and 70% to allow drying without encouraging mold or excessive desiccation.
The physical setup involves hanging the bulbs in bunches or laying them out in a single layer on screens or racks to maximize air movement around each bulb. Keep the garlic out of direct sunlight throughout this period, as intense sun can scorch the outer wrappers and compromise quality. Curing typically lasts between three to six weeks, depending on the climate and bulb size. This time allows the neck of the stalk to fully dry down and the protective wrappers to tighten.
Indicators of Readiness and Final Trimming
Determining when the garlic is completely cured requires checking specific physical indicators. The most reliable sign is a completely dry and constricted neck where the stem meets the bulb. The outer wrappers should feel papery, tight, and brittle, forming a sealed, protective shell. The roots, which were initially soft, should now be shriveled, dry, and easily crumbled off.
Once cured, the garlic is ready for final trimming before long-term storage. Trim the dried roots back to approximately one-half inch from the base of the bulb using sharp shears. For hardneck varieties, cut the stiff stem back to one to two inches above the bulb, leaving a short handle. Softneck varieties can be trimmed similarly or braided while the stems still have slight pliability. Trimming is best done when the plant material is completely dry, preventing disease entry.
Proper Long-Term Storage
After the garlic has been fully cured and trimmed, it must be moved to an environment that is different from the curing location to maximize its shelf life. Optimal long-term storage is cool, with temperatures maintained between 32 and 40°F (0–4°C). This cooler temperature keeps the bulbs dormant and prevents premature sprouting, which occurs when stored too warmly. Humidity should be low, ideally between 50 and 60%, to prevent mold or fungus growth on the outer wrappers.
The storage area requires good air circulation to mitigate localized moisture buildup. Store the bulbs in mesh bags, ventilated baskets, or hanging braids to allow air to move freely. Home refrigerators are generally not suitable because high humidity causes mold, and the cold temperature encourages sprouting once returned to room temperature. Storing the garlic in a dark location is beneficial, as light can trigger the sprouting process.