Drying daffodil bulbs, scientifically known as Narcissus, is a necessary step when dividing crowded garden beds, relocating plants, or preparing them for dormancy. This process, often called curing, removes excess moisture from the bulb tissue and the outer tunic. Removing this moisture prevents the development of fungal pathogens and rot during storage. Proper drying ensures the bulb retains the energy reserves needed for healthy growth and flowers the following season.
Timing and Initial Preparation
The time to lift daffodil bulbs is when the foliage has begun to naturally senesce and turn yellow, but before it completely disappears. This timing, typically six weeks after flowering, allows the leaves to photosynthesize and transfer maximum energy back into the bulb for next year’s bloom. Cutting back green foliage robs the bulb of this stored energy.
To lift the bulbs, use a garden fork or spade inserted several inches away from the plant clump to avoid slicing into the bulbs. Gently shake or brush away the bulk of the soil clinging to the roots and bulb surface. Do not wash the bulbs with water, as introducing moisture will counteract the drying process. After initial cleaning, cut the dead foliage down to about one or two inches above the neck, and trim any loose, dead roots close to the basal plate.
Establishing the Curing Environment
Curing is the physical process of moisture removal that extends the bulb’s storage life and helps inhibit diseases like bacterial rot and mold. The ideal curing environment must be dark, dry, and well-ventilated to encourage consistent moisture evaporation from the bulb’s surface. Suitable locations include an open shed, a protected garage, or a dry basement.
The temperature during the curing phase should be consistently maintained between 50°F and 70°F (10°C to 21°C). Temperatures below this range slow the drying, while temperatures above can stress the bulb tissue. To maximize air circulation, lay the prepared bulbs out in a single layer, ensuring that no bulb is touching another. Wire racks, screen trays, or newspaper placed on a raised surface are good choices. The curing process typically takes two to three weeks, depending on the ambient humidity and the initial moisture content of the bulbs.
Inspection and Long-Term Storage
A daffodil bulb is fully cured and ready for long-term storage when it feels firm and solid, and its outer covering, or tunic, has become distinctly papery. Inspect each bulb carefully and discard any that feel soft, show signs of damage, or have visible mold growth, as these will introduce pathogens to the rest of the stored stock. Gently remove any remaining loose layers of papery skin or soil residue before packing.
For long-term storage, the bulbs must be placed in breathable containers that allow for continued air exchange. Mesh bags, open cardboard boxes, or paper sacks are suitable choices, but sealed plastic bags should be avoided. If storing multiple layers, nestle the bulbs in a medium such as dry peat moss or sawdust from untreated lumber; this material helps regulate moisture. The storage location should maintain a cool, dry temperature, ideally between 55°F and 65°F (13°C to 18°C), and must remain dark and well-ventilated to keep humidity low. Checking the stored bulbs monthly ensures they remain healthy until they are replanted in the autumn.