The Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is a popular ornamental tree celebrated for its summer flowers and attractive exfoliating bark. Although resilient and adaptable, relocation sometimes becomes necessary for its long-term health or landscape design. Successful transplanting depends on minimizing stress to the tree’s root system during the move. Following a precise sequence of preparation, digging, and replanting ensures the plant establishes successfully in its new environment.
Timing and Necessary Preparations
The most opportune moment for moving a Crepe Myrtle is during dormancy, typically spanning from late fall to early spring. Transplanting after the leaves have dropped and before new buds swell minimizes shock because the tree’s energy demands are lowest. Gather a sharp spade, tape measure, strong twine, heavy-duty tarp or plastic sheeting, and burlap for securing the root ball.
For larger, established trees, pre-root pruning 6 to 12 months before the move significantly increases the chance of survival. This involves using a sharp spade to slice a circle into the soil around the tree, defining the future root ball boundary. This action severs long, distal roots and stimulates the growth of fine, nutrient-absorbing feeder roots closer to the trunk. The resulting dense root mass is contained within the ball, helping the tree absorb water and nutrients immediately after transplant.
Excavating the Root Ball
The root ball size is proportional to the diameter of the trunk, or caliper, which should be measured six inches above the soil line for a multi-trunk Crepe Myrtle. A general guideline suggests a root ball diameter of 10 to 12 inches for every inch of trunk caliper. For instance, a tree with a three-inch trunk diameter requires a root ball roughly 30 to 36 inches across.
Mark the calculated circumference on the soil around the tree to guide excavation. Dig a vertical trench just outside this marked line, using the spade to sever any roots encountered. The trench should be deep enough to reach the intended depth of the root ball, typically about two-thirds of the diameter.
After encircling the root ball, undercut it to separate it from the remaining subsoil. Work the spade or shovel horizontally beneath the ball, cutting through the final anchoring roots while maintaining the ball’s integrity. Once fully separated, carefully tilt the tree and slide heavy-duty burlap or plastic sheeting under the root ball.
Immediately wrap and secure the soil mass to prevent it from crumbling and to protect the fine feeder roots from drying out. Draw the material up around the ball, folding the edges tightly, and use strong twine or rope to secure it firmly around the base of the trunk. This process ensures the root ball remains intact and moist during the move, aiding the tree’s successful recovery.
Setting the Tree in Its New Location
Prepare the planting hole at the new site before moving the tree. Ensure the hole is two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper than the ball’s height. This width provides loosened soil where new, lateral roots can easily expand into the surrounding landscape. Planting too deeply leads to root suffocation, so the top of the root ball, where the root flare begins, must sit at or slightly above the finished grade.
Gently lower the tree into the center of the prepared hole, positioning it so the root flare is visible and the trunk is straight. Once positioned, carefully remove any twine, wire, or non-biodegradable wrapping from the root ball, cutting away the burlap or plastic sheeting covering the sides and top. Burlap can be left under the ball to decompose, but pull all excess fabric out of the hole to prevent it from wicking moisture away from the roots.
Backfill the hole with the native soil removed during excavation, tamping lightly to remove air pockets without excessive compaction. After filling the hole halfway, saturate the soil with water to settle it and eliminate remaining voids around the roots. Finish backfilling, then create a shallow berm or ring of soil just outside the root ball edge to form a basin that will help retain water. Conclude with a deep watering, and apply a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch over the planting area, keeping it several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture retention against the bark. Avoid applying fertilizer, as the tree should focus energy on root establishment rather than leaf growth.