Crepe myrtle trees, known for their vibrant summer blooms, possess a root system that is relatively shallow and fibrous, spreading horizontally rather than sinking deep into the soil. While these roots are not typically considered invasive to foundations or underground utilities, their tenacity and strong tendency to produce new shoots present a significant challenge when the tree must be removed. Because the root network is shallow, manual excavation is feasible. However, the remaining root fragments are aggressive and require a strategic, multi-step approach to ensure complete elimination of the plant.
Essential Tools and Preparation
Gathering the correct tools and preparing the site will streamline the process of root removal. A heavy-duty, all-metal shovel is necessary, as a wooden-handled tool is likely to break when used for prying and leveraging the dense root ball. A cutter mattock, featuring an axe blade on one side and a broad hoe on the other, is invaluable for breaking up hard soil and chopping through medium-sized roots.
Protective gear, including thick gloves and safety glasses, should be worn to guard against flying debris and sharp tool edges. For larger roots, a root saw or a reciprocating saw (Sawz-All) fitted with a coarse, wood-cutting blade will be needed for clean cuts. The initial preparatory step involves cutting the main trunk of the crepe myrtle as close to the ground as possible, leaving a low stump or root crown exposed for easy access.
Step-by-Step Manual Root Excavation
The physical removal process begins with digging a circumferential trench around the exposed root crown to define the root ball’s extent. Start digging approximately 12 to 18 inches away from the stump, moving soil away from the base to expose the shallow lateral roots that radiate outward. Deepen the trench to expose the entire upper surface of the root ball and the main lateral roots.
Once the lateral roots are clearly visible, use loppers or the axe edge of the mattock to sever them cleanly where they enter the trench. For thicker roots, the root saw or reciprocating saw should be employed to make a precise cut around the entire perimeter of the root crown. Cutting these roots allows the central mass to be separated from its ground anchors, minimizing resistance during the final lift.
Use the stump itself as a lever point, rocking it back and forth to loosen the remaining soil and sever any final anchoring roots. If the tree was large, a deep taproot might be present, though this is less common for crepe myrtles. This taproot can be cut using a spud bar or a shovel with a sharp edge driven straight down. With the root system sufficiently severed, the remaining root ball can be lifted out of the ground, often requiring significant leverage from the heavy-duty shovel blade.
Managing Persistent Suckers and Preventing Regrowth
Crepe myrtle root fragments left in the soil possess stored energy reserves and will attempt to regenerate into new plants, known as suckers. Immediately following the stump removal, remove as many visible root fragments as possible from the excavation site, as even small pieces can sprout. Any new shoots that appear in the surrounding soil must be removed promptly and consistently.
This continuous removal is a non-chemical method of exhausting the root system’s energy supply, effectively starving the remaining fragments below ground. Applying a thick layer of mulch or covering the area with a dark plastic tarp for a full growing season (solarization) can suppress light and heat the soil, which helps to inhibit and kill off latent root buds. Diligence in monitoring the area for several seasons is necessary, as root fragments can remain viable for an extended period.
Alternative Chemical Treatment Methods
For individuals dealing with a large or stubborn root crown that resists manual removal, systemic chemical treatment offers a viable alternative to prevent regrowth. Systemic herbicides, such as those containing glyphosate or triclopyr, are effective because they travel through the plant’s vascular system to kill the entire root structure. The most effective application method is to treat the fresh cut surface of the remaining stump immediately after the trunk is felled.
The herbicide should be painted or dripped directly onto the inner ring of the stump, known as the cambium layer. Applying the chemical within minutes of the cut is crucial for maximum absorption and translocation into the root system before the tissue seals over. Alternatively, holes can be drilled into the stump top and filled with the concentrated herbicide, which helps the chemical penetrate deeper into the wood. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application rates and safety precautions. Note that this method requires patience, as the root system may take several weeks or months to die completely.