When encountering a dense network of tree roots during a landscaping or construction project, the primary challenge is to clear the necessary space without causing lasting harm to the parent tree. Trees rely on a complex, widespread root system for stability, water, and nutrient uptake, making any disruption a potential threat to their health. The key to successfully digging through this organic obstacle is a combination of meticulous planning, using the correct tools, and employing precise cutting techniques to minimize the tree’s stress and encourage proper healing.
Essential Preparation and Assessment
Before any dirt is moved, establish a safe work zone. The first step is to contact the national “Call Before You Dig” number, 811, or your local utility notification center. This free service ensures professional locators mark the approximate location of all buried utility lines (gas, electric, water, and communication cables). This is a mandatory safety measure before breaking ground.
Wait the required number of business days (typically two to three) for utility companies to mark their lines with colored paint or flags. Digging without these markings is hazardous, potentially illegal, and risks serious injury or expensive fines. Once the area is confirmed safe, the next assessment involves identifying the source and size of the roots, determining if they belong to your tree or a neighbor’s.
The size of the roots dictates your approach and whether professional intervention is required. Structural roots, typically larger than two inches in diameter and located close to the trunk, provide most of the tree’s anchorage. Cutting these large roots severely compromises the tree’s stability and health, so consult a certified arborist before proceeding with roots near this size.
Tools Required for Cutting Roots
Having the right equipment ensures clean cuts, which is essential for the tree’s recovery and preventing disease. For small, fibrous roots up to an inch in diameter, heavy-duty pruning shears or bypass loppers provide the necessary precision. A sharp, straight-edged shovel can also shear through very small roots and help define the trench line.
For thicker, woody roots greater than an inch, use a specialized root saw or a reciprocating saw equipped with a pruning blade. Root saws have coarse, aggressive teeth designed to power through wood and dirt. A mattock or grub hoe is useful for initial excavation and prying up severed roots but should not be used for the final cut. Always wear safety gear, including thick gloves and eye protection.
Techniques for Efficient Root Removal
Root removal must prioritize making a clean cut to minimize the wound area and reduce the likelihood of fungal infection or pest infestation. After carefully exposing the root, isolate the section you intend to remove. Make the cut no closer to the trunk than three times the diameter of the tree trunk itself to safeguard the root protection zone.
The technique involves making two distinct, clean cuts: one closest to the tree and one at the perimeter of the excavation area. This removes a root segment, allowing for trenching, and leaves a clean, smooth surface at the tree-side cut that can properly callus over. Avoid using blunt tools, such as an axe or a dull shovel, as these tear and crush the root tissue, creating a ragged wound that is difficult for the tree to heal.
If dealing with multiple roots, restrict the total volume of severed roots to no more than 25 percent of the root system on that side of the tree. This limit helps maintain the tree’s structural stability and its ability to absorb water and nutrients. For very large roots that must be cut, digging a small trench away from the tree provides clear space to use a saw for a straight, clean severance.
Protecting the Parent Tree and Preventing Regrowth
Once roots are removed, focus on ensuring the parent tree recovers and preventing new root growth from re-invading the area. To aid recovery, cover the remaining exposed roots immediately with soil or mulch to prevent drying out. Providing supplemental water during the following growing season helps compensate for the loss of root mass.
For long-term management, install a physical root barrier vertically into the trench line to redirect root growth downward. These barriers, often made of high-density polyethylene (HDPE), should be placed with a slight outward tilt and extend at least 24 to 48 inches deep to be effective. Chemical root barriers, which deter root tips from growing near the treated zone, are another option, but they require careful application.
Any digging or root cutting close to the trunk, within the established root protection zone, requires careful monitoring of the tree for signs of stress, such as yellowing leaves or canopy dieback. If the tree shows significant decline in the months following the procedure, it is a sign that too much of the structural root system was compromised, and an arborist should be consulted for specialized care or a final assessment.