Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers and flower spikes, is important for maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. This process signals that the reproductive cycle is complete, prompting the plant to shift its focus from maintaining the old spike to building strength for future growth. Understanding when and how to make these cuts, along with adjusting the environment afterward, encourages the orchid to bloom again.
Understanding the Purpose of Deadheading
The primary reason for removing a spent flower spike is to redirect the orchid’s stored energy back into its vegetative growth structures. If faded flowers remain, the orchid expends energy attempting to produce seed pods on that spike. Removing the entire spike or the upper portion eliminates this drain, allowing the plant to focus on developing stronger roots and new leaves. This conservation of energy ensures the plant is healthy enough to initiate a new, stronger flower spike in the next blooming cycle.
A secondary benefit of deadheading is preventing disease. A deteriorating flower spike can become an entry point for fungal or bacterial pathogens, especially in high-humidity environments. Deadheading also improves aesthetics by removing unattractive brown or yellowing tissue. This action reduces the potential for rot and maintains a clean growing environment, promoting the long-term well-being of the orchid.
Essential Tools and Preparation for Pruning
Proper preparation begins with selecting the correct cutting instrument and ensuring it is clean. Choose a sharp tool, such as a razor blade, a small knife, or bypass pruners, because a clean cut minimizes damage to the plant tissue. A dull instrument can crush the stem, making the wound larger and increasing the risk of infection.
Sterilization is a fundamental step performed before making any cut to prevent the transmission of viruses and pathogens. A reliable method is wiping the blade surfaces for at least thirty seconds with 70% isopropyl alcohol, allowing it to air-dry completely. Alternatively, a solution of one part chlorine bleach to nine parts water can be used. Alcohol is often preferred as it is less corrosive to the tools.
The Precise Steps for Cutting the Spent Flower Spike
The cutting method depends on the specific orchid genus and the desired outcome. The common Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) is the only widely cultivated variety that can rebloom from an existing, green spike, allowing for two distinct strategies.
If the goal is to encourage a secondary bloom, identify a dormant node, which appears as a small, slightly raised triangular scale on the stem. The cut should be made about one inch above the second or third healthy node from the base of the plant using a sterile tool. This stimulates the tissue within that node to produce a secondary flower stem or, occasionally, a small plantlet called a keiki.
The second, more universally applicable strategy is to cut the entire spike off near the base. This method is used for all other common types, such such as Cattleya or Paphiopedilum, which only flower once per spike. It is also used if the Phalaenopsis spike has turned entirely yellow or brown.
Cutting the spike one to two inches above the crown or the point where it emerges from the leaves allows the plant to focus energy on vegetative growth and root development for the next season. This is the safest choice for a weaker or newly acquired orchid, as forcing a rebloom on a green spike can deplete the plant’s reserves.
The cut should only be made once the last flower has naturally faded or the spike begins to visibly yellow or brown. Applying a small amount of cinnamon powder, a natural antifungal, to the fresh cut surface is an optional step. This helps seal the wound and prevents infection.
Post-Pruning Care to Encourage Reblooming
After deadheading, the orchid enters a period of restorative growth, and environmental adjustments can help trigger the next bloom cycle. To encourage new flower development, especially in Phalaenopsis, a temporary change in temperature is necessary.
Introducing a temperature differential of 10–15°F between daytime and nighttime for several weeks can mimic the seasonal changes that stimulate blooming. The ideal range for this cool rest period is between 60–80°F during the day and 55–65°F at night.
Fertilization should be adjusted to support the shift from vegetative growth to flowering. During the main growth phase following the cut, a balanced fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 formula, applied at half-strength every two to four weeks is beneficial.
As you begin to seek a rebloom, switch to a high-phosphorus formula, often referred to as a bloom booster, such as a 10-30-20 ratio. Maintaining adequate light, bright, indirect sun for ten to fourteen hours daily, provides the energy necessary to sustain a new spike.