When grass growth has been neglected, allowing it to surpass six inches in height, it enters a state of severe overgrowth that a standard mowing approach cannot handle. Cutting this volume of material at once risks damaging both the turf and the equipment, demanding a measured, multi-step strategy. Returning a severely overgrown area to a manageable lawn requires patience and a specific plan to protect the grass plants from physiological shock. This process involves a series of gentle reductions to gradually restore the turf’s health.
Essential Preparations and Tool Selection
Before attempting any cut, walk the entire area slowly to clear any hidden obstacles. Extremely tall grass, often exceeding a foot, can conceal hazards like rocks, fallen branches, or debris that can be violently ejected by the blade. Protective gear is necessary, including sturdy boots, long pants, and safety goggles to guard against flying debris and the dense, stiff grass stalks.
The primary tool is a rotary mower equipped with a sharp blade, as dull blades tear the grass instead of cleanly slicing it, causing additional stress. For exceptionally tall grass, a heavy-duty string trimmer can be used for an initial reduction pass. This first pass knocks the height down to a more manageable level, preventing the mower deck from becoming completely bogged down with plant material.
Implementing the Multi-Pass Cutting Strategy
The core principle for cutting severely overgrown grass is the “one-third rule,” which dictates that you should never remove more than one-third of the grass blade’s total height in a single session. This rule protects the grass plant’s ability to generate energy through photosynthesis. Removing too much leaf area forces the plant to draw on stored reserves, inhibiting root growth and causing physiological shock.
The first pass requires setting the rotary mower deck to its absolute highest available setting. Move the mower slowly to allow the blade time to process the dense material and prevent the engine from stalling or clogging. After this initial high cut, allow one to two days between passes for the grass to recover and reallocate its energy stores.
For the second and subsequent passes, lower the deck height by one notch, again removing no more than one-third of the current height. Change the direction of travel with each pass (e.g., mowing north-south, then east-west) to ensure all blades are exposed to the cutting action. This alternating pattern promotes a more even cut and helps the mower handle the remaining material efficiently. This gradual reduction process may require three or more passes over the course of a week.
Managing Clippings and Final Lawn Recovery
Cutting very long grass produces an enormous volume of clippings that must be managed to prevent lawn damage. Leaving thick, heavy layers of clippings, especially after the first high pass, will smother the grass underneath by blocking sunlight and trapping excessive moisture. This condition quickly leads to yellowing, fungal growth, and the development of matted patches.
For the initial passes that generate the most material, rake or bag the heaviest concentrations of clippings immediately after mowing. Once the grass height is reduced and the volume of cuttings is lower, finer clippings can be left on the lawn to decompose. These smaller fragments act as a natural, slow-release fertilizer, returning nutrients back into the soil.
The lawn may look stressed, pale, or slightly yellow or brown for a week or two as the plants adjust to the sudden loss of leaf material. During this recovery phase, provide the lawn with light watering to keep the soil surface moist, but avoid soaking it. Refrain from applying heavy doses of fertilizer, as the grass is already working hard to rebuild its leaf structure, and over-fertilizing adds unnecessary stress.