Pruning small branches maintains a plant’s health, encourages proper shape, and removes compromised wood that could invite disease or pests. This practice is a form of controlled wounding that, when done correctly, allows the plant to heal quickly and continue vigorous growth. The goal is to make clean, accurate cuts that promote the formation of natural barriers against decay. This guide details the proper tools and techniques necessary for your trees and shrubs.
Selecting the Correct Tools Based on Branch Diameter
A small branch typically has a diameter up to about 1.5 inches, and selecting the right tool is the first step toward a clean cut. For the smallest growth, generally up to three-quarters of an inch thick, hand pruners provide the most control and precision. Bypass pruners are preferred for cutting live, green wood because their scissor-like action delivers a clean slice that minimizes tissue damage.
As the branch diameter increases beyond an inch, hand pruners become insufficient, risking a ragged cut or tool damage. Loppers, with their long handles, handle branches from three-quarters of an inch up to 1.5 inches thick. The increased leverage allows you to sever the wood cleanly without excessive strain.
For any small branch nearing or slightly exceeding the 1.5-inch limit, a small folding hand saw is the most effective choice. Forcing a cut with loppers on wood that is too dense or thick can crush the remaining tissue, hindering the plant’s ability to seal the wound. A sharp saw ensures a smooth surface, which is essential for the tree’s natural defense mechanisms.
Making the Proper Pruning Cut
The most important element of any branch removal is locating the branch collar, the slightly swollen ring of tissue where the branch meets the main trunk or parent limb. This collar contains specialized cells responsible for compartmentalization, where the tree builds a protective barrier of wound wood to seal the cut surface. The final cut must be made just outside this collar to avoid damaging these protective cells.
Cutting too close to the trunk, known as a flush cut, removes the branch collar entirely, exposing the trunk to decay and slowing the wound-sealing process. Conversely, leaving a long stub encourages dieback, preventing proper compartmentalization and leaving an open pathway for pests and pathogens. The correct cut follows the angle of the collar without cutting into it, resulting in the smallest possible wound the tree can quickly defend.
For any small branch that is heavy or over an inch in diameter, use the three-cut method to prevent the bark from tearing down the trunk. The first cut is a shallow undercut made on the branch’s underside, six to twelve inches away from the branch collar, going about one-third of the way through. This initial cut acts as a safety stop to ensure any falling weight does not strip the bark.
The second cut is made a few inches further out from the first cut, cutting entirely through the branch from the top to remove the weight. This leaves a short, manageable stub. The final, third cut is then made precisely just outside the branch collar, removing the stub and completing the pruning process with a clean wound.
Essential Safety Measures and Tool Maintenance
Before beginning any pruning work, taking simple precautions protects both you and the plant. Wearing safety glasses shields your eyes from flying wood chips, snapping branches, and debris. Sturdy gloves protect your hands from blisters, splinters, and sharp tools.
Always ensure you have stable footing, especially when using long-handled tools like loppers. Remain aware of your surroundings for any potential hazards. Never attempt to prune branches located near electrical lines, as this requires a professional arborist or utility company.
After pruning is complete, tool maintenance is necessary to keep blades sharp and prevent the spread of plant diseases. Clean sap and organic debris off the blades using a stiff brush and warm, soapy water or a solvent. Dry the tools thoroughly and apply a light coating of oil to the metal surfaces and pivot points to prevent rust and ensure smooth operation. All cut material, particularly diseased or dead wood, should be promptly disposed of away from healthy plants to minimize pathogen transmission.