A tree that has been cut and becomes lodged, or “hung up,” in the branches of another standing tree creates a dangerous situation known as a “widow-maker.” The danger is immense because the hung-up tree is held under unpredictable tension and can fall or slide without warning. This scenario presents one of the highest risks in logging and tree felling, frequently resulting in severe injury or death. If you have any hesitation about your skill level, the size of the tree, or the environmental factors involved, hire a certified arborist or a professional logging crew.
Assessing the Danger and When to Call a Professional
A leaning tree is dangerous due to the massive, stored energy created by reaction wood. The wood on the side of the lean is under compression, while the opposite side is under tension. Cutting the tension wood without proper control can cause the trunk to violently split upward and backward, a phenomenon called “barber-chairing,” which can strike the operator with lethal force.
Before touching a saw, assess the tree’s physics and surrounding environment. Look for signs of root plate movement, such as uplifted soil or cracks around the base, indicating the tree is unstable and prone to failure. If the tree leans more than 15 to 20 degrees from vertical, or if its diameter exceeds the usable length of your chainsaw bar, the task is beyond safe DIY limits.
Professional assistance is required if the tree is located near power lines, structures, or property boundaries where an uncontrolled fall would cause significant damage. Evidence of decay, such as mushrooms or conks near the base, indicates compromised structural integrity and unpredictable wood. Wind also makes felling dangerous, as it can change the direction of the fall mid-cut.
Essential Gear and Preparing the Felling Zone
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is mandatory. This includes a hard hat, a face shield or safety glasses, and hearing protection (earplugs or muffs). You must wear chainsaw chaps or trousers, which contain ballistic fibers designed to instantly stop a moving chain upon contact.
Your gear must include steel-toed boots and non-slip gloves for better grip and vibration dampening. For tools, you need a sharpened chainsaw, a hammer or axe, and several felling wedges made of plastic or aluminum. Never use steel wedges, as they could destroy a chain if struck. A heavy-duty felling rope or winch system is necessary for contingency.
Preparation of the felling zone is a safety step. Determine the intended direction of fall and clear a retreat path at a 45-degree angle backward from the trunk. This path must be free of all debris and obstacles that could cause tripping while rapidly retreating. Ensure all bystanders are positioned a minimum of two tree lengths away from the operation.
The Cutting Technique for Releasing Tension
The safest method for a leaning tree is the bore cut (plunge cut), which allows the operator to control the hinge wood and use wedges to initiate the fall. Begin by creating a directional notch, or face cut, on the side of the tree facing the intended direction of fall. This notch should remove one-fifth to one-quarter of the tree’s diameter and establish the direction of the hinge.
Next, perform the bore cut by plunging the running saw tip into the trunk behind the notch, carefully avoiding the hinge wood. The saw must enter using the bottom quarter of the bar tip to prevent kickback. The goal is to cut horizontally through the center, leaving an uncut section of wood at the back, known as the holding wood.
The bore cut creates space for felling wedges, which are tapped into the cut to apply mechanical force against the trunk. Driving the wedges incrementally lifts the tree off the stump, relieving tension and gently pushing the tree in the desired direction. The hinge wood remains intact, acting as a pivot point to guide the fall and prevent violent splitting.
The hinge wood’s integrity controls the tree; it should be about 80% of the tree’s diameter in length and 10% of the diameter in thickness. Once the wedges have relieved the tension and started the tree moving, the final back cut severs the remaining holding wood. This technique ensures the tree is mechanically pushed off the stump, minimizing the chance of an uncontrolled fall or dangerous split.
Recovery and Contingency Planning
Planning for failure is important when felling a leaning tree. A common issue is the saw blade becoming pinched, or “bound,” when compression forces overwhelm the cut. If this happens, never attempt to pull the saw free or continue cutting, as this can lead to a loss of control or a broken chain.
Immediately shut off the saw and use wedges to relieve pressure in the kerf until the saw blade is released. Another failure point is a tree that hangs up in the canopy of the supporting tree after the cut. Never try to cut the supporting tree to free the hung-up one, as this creates a larger, more unpredictable hazard.
The recovery method for a hung-up tree is to use mechanical advantage to pull it down from a safe distance. Attach a heavy-duty rope or winch cable high on the trunk of the downed tree. The winch anchor point, such as a tractor or vehicle, must be positioned well away from the fall zone and secured so it cannot be pulled over.
The danger of “rollback” occurs when a tree, often one with significant back lean, lifts off the stump and slides backward toward the operator. Maintaining a cleared escape path is the best defense against rollback and the “barber-chairing” split. If the situation becomes too complex or unpredictable, the safest action is to retreat and contact a professional.