Felling a tree on personal property carries significant risk and potential liability if not executed correctly. This guide focuses on safely removing small, non-hazardous trees in a controlled environment. The process demands meticulous planning and respect for the force and unpredictable nature of a falling object. Mishandling even a small tree can result in serious injury, property damage, and legal complications. Understanding the proper techniques and limitations is necessary before any cutting begins.
Essential Preparation and Safety Assessment
Before approaching any tree with a saw, the operator must first equip themselves with the necessary personal protective equipment (PPE). A forestry helmet, combined with a face shield and hearing protection, guards against falling debris and noise-induced hearing loss. Chainsaw chaps, constructed with layers of ballistic material, are mandatory to stop a moving chain upon contact, protecting the legs from severe lacerations. Steel-toed boots provide foot protection against dropped logs or tools, and gloves ensure a secure grip on equipment.
An assessment must precede any cutting action to determine the safest and most effective felling strategy. Analyze the tree’s natural lean, which is often influenced by wind, sunlight, or heavy limb distribution, as this will dictate the intended direction of fall. Estimate the tree’s height to ensure the entire length fits within the designated fall zone, avoiding structures or overhead utility lines. The tree’s health should also be checked for signs of rot, loose bark, or damaged limbs, which indicate instability and a higher risk of unpredictable failure.
Once the fall direction is established, two escape routes must be planned and cleared of all debris or tripping hazards. These routes should extend diagonally away from the planned felling direction, typically at a 45-degree angle, allowing the operator to move to safety once the tree begins to drop. The intended fall zone must be clear of people, pets, and movable objects. This area should create a safety perimeter at least one and a half times the height of the tree.
The Mechanics of Directional Felling
Directional felling begins with the creation of the notch, which controls the tree’s fall direction and ensures a clean break at the base. This process involves making two cuts that meet to remove a pie-shaped section of the trunk facing the intended fall zone. The top cut, known as the face cut, is angled downward, typically at about 45 to 60 degrees. The bottom cut is made horizontally to meet the face cut. The notch depth should penetrate approximately one-fifth to one-third of the tree’s diameter.
The notch creates the pivot point for descent. After the notch is complete, the operator moves to the opposite side of the trunk to perform the felling cut, often called the back cut. This horizontal cut is made slightly above the level of the horizontal notch cut, usually about one to two inches higher. Maintaining this slight elevation difference ensures the hinge remains intact and prevents the tree from slipping off the stump prematurely.
The uncut wood remaining between the notch and the back cut is called the hinge. This mechanism directs the tree’s movement and prevents it from twisting or falling backward. The hinge width should be uniform, typically measuring about ten percent of the tree’s diameter. A hinge that is too thin will break too soon, leading to a loss of control, while one that is too thick will prevent the tree from falling completely.
As the back cut deepens, it reduces the remaining holding wood, increasing the compressive forces on the hinge, which initiates the fall. If the saw begins to bind or the tree shows no sign of movement, felling wedges—made of plastic or aluminum—are driven into the back cut to provide mechanical leverage. Wedges lift the tree off the saw blade and encourage it to tip forward. This safely guides the directional forces until the hinge fibers begin to tear and the tree falls along the established path.
Processing the Fallen Tree
Once the tree is on the ground, processing involves first removing the branches, a technique known as limbing. Limbing should proceed systematically from the base of the trunk toward the top, using the trunk itself as a stable work platform whenever possible. A danger during this phase is the presence of “spring poles,” which are limbs held under extreme tension by the weight of the fallen tree. Cutting a spring pole releases this stored energy suddenly, which can whip the limb and cause severe injury.
Branches under tension must be relieved gradually by making small cuts on the compression side, allowing the strain to dissipate before the final cut. Following this, the trunk is sectioned into manageable lengths for transport or firewood, a process called bucking. When bucking a log supported only at its ends, the top side is under compression, and the bottom is under tension. Cutting too deeply from the top will cause the log to pinch the saw blade as the cut closes.
To prevent the saw from binding, the operator should make an initial cut from the top, penetrating about one-third of the way through the trunk. A final cut is then made from the bottom, meeting the first cut, which allows the log to separate without pinching the bar. For logs lying flat on the ground, the wood is under compression on the bottom side. The cuts should be initiated from the bottom up to prevent the saw from digging into the dirt, which quickly dulls the chain.
Knowing When to Hire a Professional
While small, straightforward trees can be managed by a homeowner, certain scenarios mandate the expertise of a certified arborist or professional tree service. Any tree leaning heavily toward a structure presents a high risk. Any deviation in the fall path could result in extensive property damage and financial liability. Professionals possess the specialized rigging and climbing equipment necessary to safely dismantle such trees piece by piece.
Trees located in close proximity to overhead utility lines must never be approached by an untrained individual. Contact with live power lines can be fatal. Utility companies or professionals trained in line-clearance operations are the only parties authorized to work in these high-voltage zones. The general rule is that if the tree is within twice its height of a power line, a professional must be consulted.
The size and condition of the tree must be considered against the homeowner’s equipment limitations. If the trunk diameter exceeds the effective cutting length of the available chainsaw bar, attempting the felling cut becomes difficult and unsafe. This often leads to binding or improper hinge formation. This size constraint indicates a project that requires larger, professional-grade equipment and advanced techniques.
Trees exhibiting signs of decay (large cavities, fungal growth, or extensive dead branches) are unstable and may be prone to unexpected failure. These “widowmakers” can drop heavy limbs or split the trunk without warning, making the area beneath them dangerous even before cutting begins. Felling trees on steep slopes or unstable ground significantly complicates directional control and escape routes. This increases the probability of the log rolling or the operator losing footing.