Removing a small tree by hand is manageable if precise cutting techniques and safety procedures are followed. For manual removal, a “small tree” typically has a trunk diameter less than 8 inches, measured at chest height, though trees up to 10 inches can sometimes be managed with hand tools. Felling a tree without power tools requires careful planning and execution, emphasizing controlled, directional falling to mitigate hazards. This manual approach relies on physics and leverage, making precision in the cuts more important than brute force.
Safety Assessment and Manual Tool Selection
Before cutting, thoroughly assess the tree and its surroundings to ensure a safe work environment. Determine the tree’s natural lean—the direction it is weighted toward—using a plumb line or level to confirm the inclination. This lean, combined with wind direction and obstacles, dictates the intended path of fall, known as the drop zone. Clear the work area around the trunk of all brush, rocks, and debris to eliminate tripping hazards and allow for unobstructed movement.
Plan and clear an escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the anticipated direction of fall, extending at least 15 feet from the stump. This path allows for a quick and safe retreat as the tree begins its descent. Personal protective equipment (PPE) is mandatory, even for small trees.
PPE includes a hard hat, safety glasses or a face shield, and heavy-duty gloves. Sturdy, high-cut work boots are also necessary for ankle support and foot protection on uneven terrain.
Tool selection depends on the tree’s diameter and wood hardness. For trees in the 4-to-6-inch range, a sharp bow saw or specialized pruning saw offers excellent control and cutting speed. These saws feature aggressive, pull-stroke teeth that efficiently remove wood. While an axe or hatchet can be used for the face notch on larger trunks, a saw provides greater precision for directional cuts.
The Mechanics of Directional Felling
Directional felling is controlled by creating a wedge-shaped void, known as the face cut or hinge notch, on the side of the trunk facing the drop zone. This notch is formed by two cuts: a horizontal cut made first, followed by an angled cut that meets the back of the horizontal cut, allowing the wedge of wood to be removed. The notch depth should be approximately one-third of the tree’s diameter to establish the control point.
For small trees, a conventional notch with an angled cut of about 45 degrees provides sufficient guidance. The precision of these two cuts meeting perfectly is paramount, as this opening dictates the direction and moment of the fall.
The remaining uncut wood between the face cut and the back cut is the hinge, which controls the tree’s descent. This hinge should be roughly 10% of the tree’s diameter. It must be thick enough to guide the tree but thin enough to break cleanly.
The final step is the back cut, made horizontally on the side of the trunk opposite the face cut. Position this cut slightly higher than the bottom horizontal cut of the face notch, typically by about an inch. This height differential ensures the tree pivots downward and does not “sit back” on the hinge, which could pinch the saw.
As the back cut nears the hinge, insert a plastic or aluminum felling wedge into the cut and tap it gently with a hammer or the back of an axe. The wedge prevents the tree’s weight from binding the saw blade and applies force to push the tree over. The cut is complete when the required hinge thickness remains and the tree begins to fall. Immediately retreat along the pre-planned escape path, keeping eyes on the falling canopy.
Processing the Wood and Site Cleanup
Once the tree is safely on the ground, the next step is limbing, which involves removing all branches from the trunk. For safety, work from the base of the tree toward the tip, keeping the trunk between yourself and the branch being cut. Branches under tension, such as those pressed against the ground, require careful cutting. Start with a small, shallow cut on the compression side, then completely sever the branch from the tension side to prevent snapping back or rolling.
After limbing, the trunk is cut into manageable sections, a process called bucking, for transport or disposal. To prevent the saw from dulling, stabilize logs or cut them while slightly raised off the ground using a support log or sawbuck. When bucking a log supported at both ends and sagging, start the cut from the top to avoid pinching from compression forces, then finish from the bottom.
Dealing with the remaining stump offers several options. Physical removal is labor-intensive and difficult for anything larger than a few inches in diameter. Chemical treatments can accelerate decomposition by applying product into drilled holes. Alternatively, the stump can be left to decompose naturally, or a portable stump grinder can mechanically chew the wood down below ground level. The final step is to collect and remove all debris, including branches, sawdust, and wood chips, to restore a clean and safe work site.