Felling a large tree is one of the most hazardous activities a homeowner can undertake, requiring meticulous planning, professional equipment, and a precise understanding of cutting mechanics. This guide provides a detailed framework, but any tree near structures, power lines, or one exhibiting decay or lean should be handled by certified arborists. Safe felling relies on the careful execution of a well-developed plan, starting with assessing the environment and the tree itself.
Tree Assessment and Felling Direction
Safely felling a large tree begins with a thorough assessment of the tree and its immediate surroundings. First, determine the tree’s height to establish a clear fall zone that is at least one and a half times the height of the tree in all directions. A simple method involves using a straight stick held vertically at arm’s length, walking backward until the stick’s length visually matches the tree’s height. The distance from your eye to the tree base is the approximate height. This calculated distance must be entirely free of people, structures, vehicles, and obstacles.
Next, evaluate the tree’s natural lean, which significantly influences the direction of the fall. Use a plumb line (a weight on a string) to check if the tree is leaning away from the intended fall line. A heavy lean may require specialized rigging or advanced cutting techniques to overcome the imbalance, and often indicates the need to call a professional.
Inspect the canopy for dead or broken limbs, often called “widow makers,” which can fall unexpectedly. The trunk base must also be checked for signs of internal rot, such as fungal growths, soft wood, or large cavities. Decay weakens the hinge wood and can cause the tree to split or fall prematurely. Finally, check local municipal ordinances, as many areas require a permit for removing trees over a certain diameter, and ignoring these regulations can result in substantial fines.
Essential Safety Equipment and Ground Preparation
Proper personal protective equipment (PPE) must be worn before any cutting begins to mitigate the risks associated with chainsaw operation. Mandatory gear includes a forestry helmet with an integrated face screen and hearing protection. Cut-resistant chaps or trousers, often made of ballistic nylon, are designed to instantly jam the saw chain upon contact, protecting the wearer’s legs, which is the area most commonly injured in felling accidents.
The chainsaw requires a thorough pre-operation check to ensure mechanical reliability. Confirm the chain is sharp, as a dull chain requires excessive force and increases the risk of kickback. Verify the chain tension is correct, typically adjusted so the tie straps just make contact with the bottom of the guide bar rail when cold. Crucially, check both the fuel and the bar-and-chain oil reservoirs; running out of chain oil will rapidly destroy the bar and chain.
The immediate work area must be cleared of all brush, stones, and debris that could trip you. After determining the felling direction, establish two clear escape routes that run diagonally away from the stump, ideally at a 45-degree angle to the planned fall line. These paths must be clear enough to allow for immediate retreat the moment the tree begins to move.
Executing the Felling Cuts
Controlled directional felling relies on three precise components: the notch, the hinge, and the back cut. The notch, or face cut, is created on the side facing the intended direction of fall and guides the tree’s descent. This wedge-shaped cut consists of a horizontal cut on the bottom and a downward-sloping cut on the top that meet perfectly.
The notch should penetrate the trunk to a depth of approximately one-fifth to one-third of the tree’s diameter. The open-faced notch, featuring a wider angle of 70 to 90 degrees, is preferred because it keeps the hinge intact longer, providing maximum control. If the two cuts of the notch do not meet cleanly, the hinge will fail prematurely, and directional control will be lost.
The hinge is the section of uncut wood remaining between the back of the notch and the back cut, and it is the most important safety mechanism in the process. The hinge thickness should be a uniform 7 to 10 percent of the tree’s diameter at breast height (DBH), acting like a door hinge to pivot the tree to the ground. This wood must remain intact throughout the fall to control the tree’s direction and prevent the base from kicking back toward the operator.
The back cut is made opposite the notch, parallel to the notch’s horizontal cut, and positioned slightly higher than the bottom of the notch. This height difference, known as the “step,” ensures the hinge remains slightly thicker at the back, preventing the tree from falling backward. As you approach the hinge, insert one or more felling wedges into the back cut to prevent the saw bar from binding.
Once the back cut is within the designated hinge thickness, light taps on the wedge with the back of an axe or a hammer will often initiate the fall. At the first sign of movement (a creaking sound or visible start of the fall), immediately stop the saw, engage the chain brake, and retreat along one of the predetermined 45-degree escape routes. Remain vigilant and watch the tree until it has completely settled on the ground.
Handling the Fallen Tree
After the tree has fallen, the work shifts to limbing and bucking, which still involves significant hazards, primarily from tension in the wood. Limbing involves removing the branches from the trunk, requiring caution with branches bent under the weight of the main trunk, known as “spring poles.” These limbs are under tension and can snap back or sideways with enough force to cause serious injury if cut improperly.
To safely release a spring pole, carefully shave away the wood on the compression side (the inside of the bend) instead of cutting straight through. This gradual removal of material slowly releases the tension, allowing the limb to spring back in a controlled manner. Always stand to the side of the cut, never in the direct path of the tension release.
Bucking is the process of cutting the main trunk into manageable lengths, where the main danger is the saw bar getting pinched. When a log rests on the ground, gravity creates areas of compression (where the wood is squeezed) and tension (where the wood is stretched). Cutting into the compression side first will cause the wood to close in and bind the saw bar.
To avoid pinching, always identify the tension and compression zones by observing how the log rests. Make a small initial cut on the compression side, then complete the final cut from the tension side, allowing the cut (kerf) to widen as the weight of the log settles. On sloping ground, always work from the uphill side of the log and be aware that logs can roll unexpectedly when a cut is completed.