Felling a dead tree presents a higher risk than cutting a live specimen. Decay fungi compromise the structural integrity of dead wood, making the trunk and limbs brittle. Unlike a live tree, which gives warning, a dead tree can snap suddenly or fall unpredictably due to internal rot. This risk is compounded by “widowmakers”—broken limbs suspended in the canopy that can drop without warning during the felling process. Approaching this task requires strict adherence to preparation and safety protocols.
Safety Protocols and Assessing the Dead Tree
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is essential for protection against the dangers of chainsaw operation and tree felling. Wear ballistic nylon chainsaw chaps or pants, designed to stop the chain upon accidental contact. Head protection, such as an ANSI-rated hard hat, is necessary to guard against falling debris and “widowmakers.” This headgear should include integrated hearing protection, as chainsaws generate high noise levels, and a mesh face shield. Safety glasses must be worn underneath the face shield for primary eye protection, along with sturdy, steel-toed work boots.
Before approaching the tree, inspect the chainsaw. The chain must be sharp to prevent kickback, the bar oil reservoir full for lubrication, and the chain brake fully functional. Next, assess the dead tree for structural flaws. Look for external decay indicators, such as fungal growth at the base, large cracks, or a hollow sound when tapping the trunk. A tree with significant internal rot, where less than 30% of the radius is solid wood, is dangerously unstable.
Determine the tree’s natural lean, recognizing that internal compromise can make this misleading. Scan the canopy carefully for broken, hanging branches or tops, as these “widowmakers” can be dislodged by saw vibration. This inspection dictates the intended fall direction, which must be a clear zone free of structures. Establish at least two clear escape routes leading away from the tree at a 45-degree angle opposite the planned direction of fall.
Clearing the Base and Setting Up the Work Area
Preparation of the work area enhances safety and maneuverability. Begin by limbing up the lower portion of the tree to remove small branches that could snag the chainsaw. Cut these lower limbs smoothly and flush with the trunk up to approximately chest height, creating clear space for the felling cuts. This process also helps define the escape routes and ensures a clear path of retreat when the tree begins to fall.
Clear all brush, debris, rocks, and tripping hazards from the ground within the work radius and along the planned escape paths. Tripping while holding a running chainsaw or during retreat can lead to severe injury. The feller must have a clear, unobstructed path along the designated 45-degree angle routes as soon as the tree begins its descent.
Place necessary tools, especially felling wedges, within immediate reach. Wedges prevent the saw bar from becoming pinched in the back cut and help drive the tree in the intended direction. Use non-metallic wedges (plastic or aluminum) as a safety measure, since they will not damage the chainsaw chain if struck. Having these items ready eliminates the need to search for tools once cutting begins.
Step-by-Step Felling Technique
Felling involves creating a wood hinge to control the direction and speed of the fall. The first cut is the face notch, or undercut, made on the side facing the desired direction of fall. This notch consists of a horizontal cut followed by a sloping cut angled down to meet it, forming a removed wedge of wood. The notch depth should be approximately one-fifth to one-third of the tree’s diameter, influencing the control provided by the hinge.
The face notch acts as the directional guide, shifting the tree’s weight toward the target. The hinge is the section of uncut wood remaining between the deepest point of the face notch and the back cut. This hinge wood controls the tree’s fall and must be left intact to prevent the tree from twisting, splitting, or falling backward.
The final element is the back cut, made on the opposite side of the trunk from the face notch. This cut must be kept level and placed slightly above the face notch’s horizontal cut. As the back cut progresses, non-metallic felling wedges are inserted into the kerf to prevent the saw bar from being pinched. The wedges are then driven in with a hammer or axe to encourage the tree to lean and move in the intended direction of fall.
The back cut must stop just short of the face notch, leaving the hinge intact; this hinge should be about 10% of the tree’s diameter in thickness. Once the wedges are driven and the tree begins to move, immediately shut off the chainsaw. Retreat along one of the pre-planned 45-degree escape routes until a safe distance is reached, generally at least 15 feet back from the stump.