The process of felling a large tree carries extreme risk, often leading to serious injury or property damage if performed incorrectly. A tree is considered “big” and dangerous when its height is greater than the distance to any nearby structure or utility line, or when its diameter exceeds the length of your chainsaw bar. Given the high potential for unpredictable movement, internal decay, or structural failure, any doubt about a tree’s stability or the complexity of the fall zone should immediately prompt consultation with a certified arborist. Professionals possess the specialized training and equipment necessary to manage the immense forces involved in bringing down a massive column of wood safely.
Assessing Hazards and Preparing the Felling Site
Before any cutting begins, a thorough risk assessment of the tree and its surroundings must take place. The first step involves determining the tree’s natural lean, which is the direction the tree wants to fall due to an uneven crown, prevailing wind, or trunk curvature. A simple technique involves using a plumb line or level to sight the trunk from two different angles to accurately gauge this gravitational tendency. This analysis also requires identifying “widowmakers,” which are dead or broken limbs caught in the canopy that could dislodge and fall during the felling process.
The intended fall path must be calculated, ensuring the tree’s total height, including the crown, is at least 1.5 to 2 times clear of any bystanders or property. Carefully inspect the immediate work area for potential hazards like overhead utility lines, which require immediate notification of the power company before proceeding. Check local ordinances for any required permits or regulations regarding tree removal, especially if the tree is near a property line.
Proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is non-negotiable for anyone operating a chainsaw. The necessary tools should be gathered and checked for working order.
Required PPE and Tools
Hard hat
Ear protection
Safety glasses
Cut-resistant chainsaw chaps or pants
Steel-toed boots
Gloves
Sharp, well-maintained chainsaw
Bright-colored felling wedges
Heavy-duty hammer or axe
The final preparatory step is clearing a safe, unobstructed escape route, a measure that can save a life when the tree begins to move. Two separate paths should be cleared at approximately a 45-degree angle away from the planned direction of the tree’s fall, leading to a safe zone at least 15 to 20 feet away. This angular retreat allows the operator to move quickly while keeping the falling tree in sight, reducing the risk of being struck by the trunk’s butt end as it kicks back or by flying debris.
Executing the Felling Cuts
The felling process relies on creating a precise hinge of uncut wood to control the direction and speed of the fall. The first step is to establish the directional notch, also called the face cut or undercut, which is made on the side of the tree facing the intended direction of fall. This notch is typically executed by making a horizontal cut first, penetrating about one-third of the tree’s diameter, followed by an angled top cut (often 45 to 70 degrees) that meets the horizontal cut exactly.
The junction of these two cuts creates a clean opening that allows the tree to pivot without splitting prematurely. The depth of this notch determines the length of the hinge, which is the column of wood that will remain uncut behind the notch. This hinge is the mechanical control mechanism that steers the tree to the ground and prevents the trunk from kicking back off the stump.
Once the directional notch is complete, the felling cut, or back cut, is made on the opposite side of the trunk, level with or slightly above the horizontal cut of the notch. This cut severs the remaining wood fibers, leaving only the hinge intact. As the back cut nears the hinge, the operator should insert and drive felling wedges into the cut to prevent the saw bar from pinching and to help gently push the tree over.
The back cut must stop short of the notch, leaving a hinge of uniform thickness, generally about 10% of the tree’s diameter. As the tree begins to pivot and fall, the operator must immediately disengage the saw and retreat rapidly along the pre-cleared 45-degree escape path. The operator must watch the canopy for any signs of falling debris or “throwback” from the stump until the controlled breaking of the hinge signals the completion of the felling maneuver.
Post-Felling Management
After the tree has fallen, wait until all movement and debris have settled before approaching the trunk to ensure the area is secure. Be aware of any “spring poles,” which are small trees or branches bent and held under tension by the weight of the felled tree, as they can whip up with considerable force once released. The next step is limbing, which involves removing the branches from the trunk, starting from the base and working toward the top.
When limbing, always stand on the uphill side of the log and position the trunk between your body and the chainsaw to reduce the risk of injury from kickback. Kickback occurs most frequently during limbing and bucking, particularly if the upper quadrant of the saw bar tip contacts a solid object. Avoid using the upper tip of the bar and ensure the saw is running at full speed before making contact with a branch.
Bucking is the process of cutting the main trunk into manageable, liftable sections, and it requires careful attention to the tension and compression points in the log.
Bucking Techniques
If a log is supported at both ends, the top side is under compression and the bottom is under tension. Cutting from the top will cause the saw to pinch, so cut a shallow amount from the top, then finish the cut from the underside to prevent pinching.
Conversely, if the log is only supported in the middle, the top is under tension and the bottom is under compression, so the cut should be started from the top. To prevent the chain from hitting the ground when the log is fully resting on the earth, cut halfway through from the top, then roll the log over to complete the cut from the opposite side. Once the wood is processed, the remaining brush and debris should be cleared and disposed of according to local environmental regulations.