Pruning lavender in the spring determines the overall health, shape, and flowering potential of the plant for the coming season. This practice prevents the plant from becoming overly woody and leggy, which often leads to shorter lifespans and a less abundant display of flowers. Removing last year’s growth stimulates the development of fresh, productive stems, ensuring a dense, mounded form that maximizes sun exposure and air circulation.
The Critical Timing and Essential Tools
The window for spring pruning opens only after the danger of a hard frost has completely passed. Cutting back the plant too early can expose tender new growth to freezing temperatures, potentially damaging or killing the fresh shoots. The optimal time is generally between late March and early May, just as the first signs of new green shoots emerge from the base of the plant. Pruning must occur before the lavender begins to set its new flower buds, as cutting later will reduce the number of summer blooms.
Preparation requires the right equipment to ensure clean cuts that heal quickly and minimize stress on the plant. Sharp bypass pruners or hand shears are the best tools, as their scissor-like action creates a precise cut without crushing the stem tissue. Before starting, sterilize your tools by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol or a weak bleach solution. This step prevents the spread of fungal diseases or bacteria to the newly opened wounds on your lavender.
Pruning Techniques Based on Lavender Variety
The amount of material to remove depends on the specific type of lavender you are growing, as different species tolerate varying levels of pruning severity. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), including varieties like ‘Munstead’ and ‘Hidcote,’ is the hardiest and most forgiving, capable of handling a more aggressive spring cut. For this type, aim to remove approximately one-third of the previous year’s green growth, cutting just above a set of healthy new leaves. This technique encourages dense, compact branching and helps maintain the rounded, dome-like shape of the shrub.
In contrast, French Lavender (L. dentata) and Spanish Lavender (L. stoechas) are less tolerant of heavy cuts and are generally less cold-hardy than English varieties. These types bloom earlier and should be pruned much more lightly in the spring, focusing mainly on shaping and tidying winter-damaged tips. The technique involves a gentle trim, removing only the spent flower spikes and shaping the foliage. Ensure you never cut into the thick, leafless stems below the green growth.
Avoiding Old Wood and Post-Pruning Maintenance
The most significant warning when pruning lavender is to never cut into the “old wood,” which refers to the thick, gray, leafless stems at the base of the plant. Unlike many other shrubs, lavender rarely generates new growth from these lignified stems. Cutting into old wood can create a permanent bare spot or cause the entire shrub to die back. Always ensure your cut is made in the green, flexible part of the stem where small leaves or buds are emerging.
Following the spring cut, minimal aftercare is needed to support the plant’s recovery and new growth. Lavender prefers dry conditions, so watering is only necessary if the soil is notably dry. If you choose to feed the plant, apply a light, balanced, slow-release fertilizer sparingly. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowering. Applying a thin layer of fine gravel or light mulch around the base, keeping it away from the crown, helps regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture while preventing crown rot.