The Crepe Myrtle, scientifically known as Lagerstroemia, is a widely appreciated ornamental tree or shrub, valued for its long summer bloom period and attractive, peeling bark. Its popularity often leads to confusion about pruning. While these plants are resilient, improper cuts can diminish their natural beauty and compromise their health. Understanding the correct methods is necessary to maintain the plant’s structural integrity and maximize its flowering potential. This guide offers instructions for making clean, strategic cuts that promote a healthy growth habit.
Optimal Timing and Necessary Equipment
Pruning should be performed during the plant’s dormant season, specifically in late winter or very early spring, typically from mid-February to early March. This timing allows for a clear view of the branch structure. Pruning too early risks cold damage to fresh cuts if a severe cold snap follows, injuring the stem tissue. Waiting until just before new growth begins ensures the plant can immediately start the healing process.
Crepe Myrtles bloom on new wood, so pruning before the spring growth flush stimulates the production of stronger branches that will bear the summer flowers. Necessary tools include hand pruners for branches under half an inch thick, long-handled loppers for branches up to one and a half inches, and a pruning saw for larger limbs. All tools must be sharp and cleaned with a disinfectant, such as bleach or alcohol, to prevent the spread of diseases.
Step-by-Step Shaping and Maintenance Cuts
The initial phase of pruning involves removing the “three Ds”: dead, diseased, or damaged wood. These cuts eliminate potential entry points for pests and pathogens, immediately improving the tree’s health. Any broken, fungal, or desiccated branches should be removed back to a healthy main branch or the trunk.
Next, focus on removing suckers, which are weak, vertical shoots growing from the base or roots. Suckers compete with the main trunks for moisture and nutrients and should be cut off as close to the ground or trunk as possible, without leaving a stub. Branches that cross or rub against each other should also be eliminated, as this friction creates open wounds that expose the interior wood to infection.
The primary goal for shaping cuts is to open the canopy for better air circulation and light penetration, promoting a strong, vase-like form. When thinning the canopy, always make cuts back to a larger branch, a lateral side branch, or the branch collar on the main trunk. The branch collar is the swollen ring of tissue at the base of the branch; cutting just outside this area allows the tree to naturally seal the wound. Cuts should never be made indiscriminately in the middle of a branch. For multi-trunked tree forms, aim to maintain three to five well-spaced main trunks, removing any smaller limbs that grow from the lower third of the trunks.
Why Severe Topping Damages Crepe Myrtles
The practice of cutting large branches back to thick stubs, often referred to as “Crape Murder,” is highly detrimental to the tree’s structure and health. When a major branch is cut mid-stem, the tree responds by producing a dense cluster of weak, fast-growing shoots just below the cut. This growth pattern, sometimes called “witches’ broom,” is a short-term survival mechanism that results in a permanently disfigured appearance.
These new, spindly branches are poorly attached to the main limb and are much more likely to break off during strong winds or heavy rain, especially when weighed down by large flower clusters. The large, open wound left by the topping cut is slow to heal and provides an easy entry point for wood-decaying organisms and boring insect pests. Repeated topping leads to the formation of unsightly, knotted knobs on the branch ends, which compromises the plant’s ability to seal wounds effectively. Although Crepe Myrtles will still bloom after being topped because they flower on new wood, this aggressive practice forces the tree to expend excess energy on recovery rather than establishing a strong structure.