Amaryllis plants are a popular choice for vibrant winter color, but care continues after the spectacular blooms fade. Enjoying these flowers again next season requires a year-long cycle of post-bloom growth, rest, and reawakening. Proper care after the petals drop is necessary for the bulb to gather and store the energy required to produce another flower stalk the following year. This process involves precise steps for cutting the spent flower scape and nurturing the foliage throughout the growing season.
Removing the Spent Flower Stalk
The first step after the flowers wilt involves removing the tall, hollow stem, known as the scape, that supported the blossoms. Cut this stem back a few inches above the top of the bulb, using a clean, sharp knife or pruners. This prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production, which depletes reserves needed for future flowering.
Remove only the flower stalk, leaving any accompanying strap-like foliage intact. If the green scape has not yet begun to yellow, some gardeners leave it to allow remaining nutrients to be drawn back into the bulb. Once the stalk turns yellow or begins to sag, it is ready for removal.
Caring for the Foliage
The leaves that emerge after or alongside the flower stalk are the plant’s source of power for the next bloom cycle. These long, green leaves must be allowed to grow and photosynthesize throughout the spring and summer months. The bulb relies entirely on this leaf growth to generate the food reserves necessary for future flowering.
For this active growth phase, position the potted plant in a location that receives bright, indirect light, such as a sunny window. Once the danger of frost has passed and outdoor temperatures remain above 50°F, the amaryllis can be moved outside. Place it in a spot that receives morning sun or dappled light, protecting the foliage from intense afternoon sun.
During this summer growth period, maintain a consistent watering schedule, allowing the top inch or two of soil to dry slightly between waterings. Fertilization is also necessary to rebuild the bulb’s strength. Apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 mixture, monthly through July. The foliage must not be cut back during this time; the leaves must grow naturally to maximize the energy stored in the bulb.
Preparing the Bulb for Dormancy
As summer transitions into early fall, induce a period of rest, or dormancy, which mimics the amaryllis’s natural seasonal cycle. This process typically begins in late August or September by gradually withholding water and fertilizer. As water becomes scarce, the plant enters a resting state, and the green leaves will begin to yellow and wither.
Once the foliage has completely turned yellow and dried, trim it back to about one to two inches above the bulb. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark, and dry location, like a basement or garage, where temperatures remain between 50 and 55°F. The bulb must not receive any water during this resting phase, which should last a minimum of eight to ten weeks to reset the flowering cycle.
Bringing the Amaryllis Back into Bloom
After the required dormancy period, the bulb is ready to be reawakened for its next blooming cycle. Timing can be managed to achieve flowers around the holidays; count back six to eight weeks from the desired bloom date to determine when to end dormancy. If the bulb was removed for storage, replant it in fresh potting mix, ensuring the top third remains exposed above the soil line.
Move the potted amaryllis to a bright, warm location, ideally with temperatures around 70 to 75°F. Provide an initial thorough watering to settle the soil, but refrain from watering again until new growth, such as a flower stalk or leaves, visibly emerges. This encourages the bulb to focus stored energy on producing a flower spike. Once active growth begins, resume normal watering; the new flower stalk should appear within four to eight weeks.