The Monstera plant, often recognized by its nickname the Swiss Cheese Plant due to the unique holes in its leaves, is a popular and fast-growing houseplant. As it matures, the vine-like nature of the plant means it will inevitably need to be managed for size or shape. Cutting the Monstera serves two primary purposes: routine maintenance to control its growth, and propagation to create new plants from the cuttings. This process is a straightforward way to expand your collection or share your thriving plant with others.
Preparing for the Cut
The best time to take a cutting is during the plant’s active growing season, in the spring and summer months. Making a cut during this period ensures the mother plant is vigorous enough to recover quickly and the cutting has optimal conditions to develop roots quickly. While propagation is possible year-round, growth will be significantly slower in the cooler, darker fall and winter months.
Before making any cuts, gather and sterilize the necessary equipment to protect the plant from infection. Use a pair of sharp, clean shears or pruners, as a clean cut minimizes damage to the plant tissues and encourages faster healing. Sterilizing the blades with rubbing alcohol removes any pathogens that could be transferred to the open wound of the plant.
Identifying the Node and Making the Propagation Cut
Successful Monstera propagation depends on locating and including a node on the cutting. The node is a slightly swollen or bumpy area on the stem where new growth, including leaves, aerial roots, and new stem shoots, originates. Without a node, a cutting will not be able to develop new soil roots and will eventually decline.
You can identify a node as a joint-like ring or thin line along the stem, often with a small brown aerial root already emerging from it. These aerial roots are what the plant uses in nature to attach to and climb vertical surfaces. When selecting a stem segment, look for one that has at least one leaf and one prominent node.
To make the cut, position your sterilized shears on the main stem about one-half to one inch below the chosen node. Cutting below the node ensures that the growth point remains on the detached section, ready to sprout new roots. Make a sharp, swift cut to minimize tissue trauma. It is possible to separate a long vine into multiple cuttings, with each single-leaf segment requiring its own node for viability.
Post-Cutting Care for New Cuttings and the Mother Plant
Once the cutting has been separated, you can begin the process of encouraging root growth.
Water propagation involves submerging the node end of the cutting in a container of clean water, ensuring the node is fully covered. This method allows you to easily monitor the development of the new roots, which appear within two to four weeks.
Roots grown in water can sometimes be fragile, so an alternative is to root the cutting directly in a moist, well-draining medium like sphagnum moss or perlite-amended potting soil. This method often results in a stronger root system that is better adapted to soil conditions. Regardless of the medium, the cutting should be placed in a warm location that receives bright, indirect light to fuel photosynthesis and root development.
The mother plant recovers well, as pruning often encourages new growth from the nearest remaining node on the original stem. The cut stem end should be left to dry and heal naturally; some gardeners apply cinnamon powder as a natural antifungal agent. The mother plant will redirect its energy to the remaining leaves and the new growth point. Continue normal care, ensuring consistent watering and bright, indirect light to support its recovery and renewed growth.