Covering bushes with burlap shields vulnerable plants from the damaging effects of winter weather in colder climates. This practice primarily acts as a barrier against desiccation, the excessive moisture loss that occurs when the ground is frozen and roots cannot absorb water. Burlap also defends against harsh winds and intense winter sun, which together cause “winter burn.” The fabric protects branches from breakage under heavy snow and ice loads, and deters browsing by deer or shields plants from road salts.
Identifying Shrubs That Need Protection and Timing
Broadleaf evergreens are most susceptible to winter damage and benefit most from burlap, as they retain leaves and continue to lose moisture throughout the winter. Vulnerable varieties include rhododendrons, azaleas, boxwoods, and recently planted shrubs whose root systems are not yet fully established. Shrubs situated in exposed areas, such as those facing strong prevailing winds or the south side where the winter sun is strongest, are also prime candidates for covering. Plants located near sidewalks or driveways that are routinely treated with de-icing chemicals should also be considered for protection against salt spray.
Timing the installation is important for the shrub’s health. The process should begin in late fall, ideally after the ground has frozen solid but before the onset of severe weather or heavy snowfall. Waiting until the ground is frozen ensures the shrub is fully dormant and minimizes the risk of trapping moisture that could lead to fungal growth. Covers must remain in place until consistent temperatures above approximately 28 degrees Fahrenheit return in the spring to prevent exposure to late-season frosts or sun scald.
Essential Materials for Constructing Covers
The most effective material is natural jute burlap, a coarse, loosely woven fabric that is breathable and biodegradable. The open weave of the jute allows for necessary air circulation, preventing the buildup of heat and moisture that can cause mold, while still filtering damaging winds and sunlight. Synthetic alternatives or plastic should be avoided because they trap moisture against the foliage and can transfer cold, which exacerbates freeze damage.
Support structures are needed to keep the burlap from resting directly on the foliage, which is important for broader or more rigid shrubs. Frameworks can be constructed using sturdy wooden stakes, metal T-posts, or sections of PVC piping driven into the ground around the plant’s drip line. Heavy-duty twine or jute rope is necessary for securing the burlap to the frame or for binding the branches of the shrub itself. Other helpful tools include a hammer for driving stakes, sharp scissors or a utility knife for cutting the burlap, and a staple gun or zip ties for firmly attaching the fabric to the support posts.
Step-by-Step Wrapping and Caging Techniques
The method chosen depends on the shrub’s size and shape, with two main techniques offering optimal protection. For smaller, upright, or columnar shrubs, the direct wrapping technique is the most practical. Before wrapping, gently tie the branches together in a spiral motion, starting from the base and working up to the top with soft twine. This condenses the plant into a conical shape.
This initial binding prevents snow and ice from splaying and breaking the branches. Once bound, wrap a large sheet of burlap around the shrub, spiraling it from the bottom up to the top. The top should be left slightly open or loosely tied to allow for air exchange and light penetration. Secure the bottom edge firmly to the ground with soil, bricks, or stakes to prevent wind from blowing up underneath the cover.
Caging for Larger Shrubs
For larger, more delicate, or multi-stemmed plants, constructing a cage or screen is the preferred method to create a protective air space around the foliage. Begin by driving three or four tall wooden stakes into the ground at a distance of at least six inches from the outermost branches of the shrub. The stakes should extend a few inches higher than the tallest point of the plant. The burlap is then wrapped around the outside of this frame, creating a cylindrical windbreak. The burlap must not touch the foliage, as wet, frozen fabric can cause damage.
The fabric should be stapled or secured tightly to the stakes, and the bottom edge must be anchored to the ground to prevent cold air infiltration and maintain stability against high winds. This caging technique is effective because the air pocket between the fabric and the foliage provides an insulating layer and prevents the weight of snow from crushing the branches.
Spring Removal and Post-Winter Assessment
Removing the burlap covers in the spring requires careful timing to ensure the shrubs do not suffer shock from sudden exposure to sunlight and wind. The best time to remove protection is when the threat of hard frost has passed and daily temperatures are consistently moderate. Removal should be performed on a cool, overcast, or cloudy day, allowing the foliage to gradually acclimate to the increased light intensity.
Uncovering the shrubs on a bright, sunny day can lead to sun scald on sensitive evergreen leaves, causing them to turn brown or yellow. Once the covers are removed, a thorough assessment of the shrub’s condition is necessary. Inspect the foliage and stems closely for signs of damage, such as mold or fungus growth caused by trapped moisture, breakage from heavy snow loads, or evidence of rodent activity within the protected area.
Any branches showing signs of breakage or significant dieback should be pruned back to a healthy point to encourage new growth. A deep watering is beneficial for evergreens that may have experienced moisture loss. This final care routine helps the shrubs recover quickly.