The conversion of a traditional sprinkler zone to a drip irrigation system is an effective water management strategy. Sprinkler heads broadcast water over a wide area, leading to significant loss through runoff and evaporation, especially in non-lawn areas like garden beds and shrub borders. Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the plant root zone, a method that can reduce water consumption by up to 70% compared to conventional sprinklers. This targeted approach ensures moisture is precisely where plants need it, encouraging deeper root growth. The process leverages the existing underground piping structure, making the conversion of an established zone a straightforward, cost-effective project.
Essential Tools and Materials
A successful conversion requires gathering the necessary components to transition from a high-pressure to a low-pressure system. The pressure-regulating drip manifold screws onto the existing sprinkler riser. This manifold contains an integrated pressure reducer, lowering the pressure from the standard household range of 50-70 PSI down to the 10-30 PSI required for drip components.
Thread sealant, such as Teflon tape, is needed for a watertight connection where the manifold meets the riser. The main water delivery line is half-inch poly tubing, which connects to the manifold’s outlet. A specialized cutter and hold-down stakes are used to manage and secure the tubing along the planting beds. Finally, any existing sprinkler heads in the same zone that are not being converted must be deactivated with threaded cap fittings to prevent water loss and maintain pressure.
Replacing the Sprinkler Head with a Drip Manifold
The physical conversion starts by completely shutting off the water supply to the irrigation zone. Next, carefully dig around the base of the existing sprinkler head until the riser pipe connection is exposed. Unscrew the sprinkler head from the riser, revealing the threaded pipe opening.
Before installing the new manifold, flush the line to remove any debris or soil particles that may have entered the pipe during the digging and removal process. Briefly turn the water supply back on until the water running from the open riser is visibly clear, then shut the supply off again. This debris removal prevents future clogging of the drip emitters, which have very small openings.
With the line flushed, apply a few wraps of Teflon tape clockwise around the male threads of the riser to create a secure, leak-proof seal. The pressure-regulating drip manifold is then carefully screwed onto the prepared riser pipe.
Installing and Testing the Drip Emitters
Once the manifold is secured, the main half-inch poly tubing is connected to its outlet and run along the perimeter of the planting area. The tubing should be laid out to pass closely by all plants that require watering, and it is best to avoid sharp bends that could restrict flow. Tubing cutters provide clean, professional cuts, and the line is anchored to the ground every few feet using the hold-down stakes to maintain the desired layout. Emitter placement is determined by the specific water needs of the plants and the soil type in the area.
For instance, clay soil allows water to spread laterally farther than sandy soil, meaning emitters can be spaced wider apart. Emitters are rated by flow rate in gallons per hour (GPH), with common rates ranging from 0.5 GPH to 2.0 GPH, depending on the plant size and soil infiltration speed. A punch tool is used to create a small hole in the side of the main tubing, into which the barbed end of the emitter or a quarter-inch micro-tubing connector is inserted.
Before connecting the final end cap to the main poly tubing, the entire line should be flushed one last time to push out any small plastic shavings or debris introduced during the punching process. This is accomplished by momentarily turning on the water while the end of the line is open, then shutting it off and securing the end cap. Finally, the system is turned on for a test run to check for leaks at the manifold connection and confirm that all emitters are delivering water as intended. The irrigation controller must then be reprogrammed to accommodate the drip system’s need for longer, less frequent watering cycles compared to the short, high-volume cycles of the former sprinkler heads.