How to Connect Chicken Wire for Fencing

Chicken wire, also known as poultry netting, is a light-gauge, woven wire mesh characterized by its flexible, hexagonal pattern. This economical and adaptable material is commonly utilized for constructing temporary fencing, creating safe enclosures for small animals, and acting as a protective barrier in gardening. The mesh is typically made from galvanized steel wire (19 to 22 gauge), which offers resistance to corrosion. Knowing the proper methods for connecting and securing the wire is important, as the integrity and longevity of the final barrier depend on the connections made between separate sections and the support structure.

Essential Tools and Safety Preparation

Working with chicken wire requires specialized tools to handle the flexible material and its sharp edges efficiently. Wire cutters or tin snips are necessary for making clean, precise cuts through the thin wire strands. Heavy-duty work gloves are mandatory for hand protection, as the freshly cut or rolled edges of the galvanized wire can easily cause abrasions or cuts.

For securing the wire, a selection of fasteners and the corresponding application tools should be on hand. These include U-shaped fence staples for wood posts, utility wire or cable ties for metal supports, and hog rings with hog ring pliers for splicing sections together. For longer runs, a simple tensioning tool or a piece of lumber can be used to pull the lightweight mesh taut before final attachment.

Splicing Techniques for Joining Wire Sections

When a single roll of chicken wire is insufficient for the desired length, two separate pieces must be reliably joined together through splicing. This connection must maintain the integrity of the mesh to prevent small animals from exploiting the seam.

The simplest technique is the twisting method, which involves aligning the two cut edges so they overlap by at least three to six inches. The free-standing vertical wire ends from the first section are manually twisted around the parallel wire strands of the second section. This lacing process is repeated along the entire vertical seam. It is important to bend and tuck the sharp twisted ends inward toward the fence line to eliminate outward-facing points.

For a faster and more mechanically secure splice, the hog ring method is preferred. Hog rings are small, open metal fasteners shaped like a letter ‘C’ that are closed using specialized pliers. Overlap the mesh pieces by approximately two inches, ensuring the hexagonal holes align. The hog rings are applied around the overlapped wires and squeezed to cinch them into a tight, circular closure. To create a robust seam that resists separation, space the rings uniformly along the splice line, typically every four to six inches vertically.

Attaching Chicken Wire to Support Structures

Securing the completed wire run to fixed support structures is the final installation step, a process that varies depending on the post material.

Wooden Posts

For wooden posts, U-shaped fence staples are the standard fastener, offering a broad surface area to hold the wire mesh. Drive staples into the post with a hammer, but do not fully seat them; leaving a small gap allows the wire to shift slightly with temperature changes. Secure the wire first at the top of the post to establish vertical alignment, then at the bottom, pulling tension before securing the middle. Staples should be staggered vertically along the post, placed every 10 to 15 inches, to distribute the load and maintain uniform tension across the mesh.

Metal Posts

The wire is typically secured to metal posts using heavy-duty, UV-resistant cable ties or thin utility wire. These ties are threaded through the pre-drilled holes found along the post, wrapping around a wire strand of the mesh before being cinched tight. Applying tension to the mesh before fastening prevents the final fence from having excessive slack or sagging. For longer fence lines, a separate tensioning wire may be run along the top edge of the posts. The chicken wire is then secured to this tensioning wire with ties every 12 to 18 inches to prevent the lightweight mesh from drooping between supports.