Underbrush refers to dense, low-lying growth, including shrubs, small trees, and tangled vines, typically found beneath a forest canopy. This vegetation often becomes invasive or creates a fire hazard, requiring removal for land management or safety purposes. Clearing this growth using manual tools is a labor-intensive process demanding proper preparation and specialized equipment. This guide provides a methodology for safely and effectively clearing underbrush.
Preparing the Workspace and Yourself
Before any cutting begins, a thorough assessment of the workspace is necessary to prevent accidents. Survey the area for potential hazards such as hidden rocks, uneven ground, and steep slopes that could cause a fall or tool deflection. Be mindful of wildlife habitats, like ground nests or insect hives, and hidden obstacles such as utility lines or irrigation pipes running beneath the surface.
Appropriate gear is required before stepping into the brush. Wear long sleeves, durable pants, and sturdy boots, preferably steel-toed, to protect against cuts and scrapes. Heavy-duty leather gloves shield the hands from thorns and blisters. Safety goggles or glasses are essential to guard against flying debris and snapping branches. Plan the work for moderate weather conditions, avoiding days that are excessively hot or when the ground is wet and slippery, which increases the risk of injury.
Essential Manual Clearing Tools
Selecting the right hand tool for the job significantly increases efficiency and reduces fatigue in manual clearing. Loppers, resembling large shears with long handles, are designed to snip woody stems up to two inches in diameter by utilizing compound leverage. For thicker material that exceeds the lopper capacity, a hand saw or folding saw with a sturdy, aggressive blade is the tool of choice, allowing for clean cuts on branches over one inch thick.
A machete or brush axe serves as a versatile tool for tackling dense, flexible growth such as young saplings and thickets of vines. These tools quickly sever material but require ample space for a safe, controlled swing. To address the roots, the cutter mattock is indispensable. It features a dual head with an axe blade for cutting roots and an adze or hoe blade for digging and prying. For smaller, shrub-like invasives, a specialized device like a weed wrench can grip the plant stem near the base and extract the root system intact using leverage.
Techniques for Removing Vegetation and Roots
The most effective clearing strategy involves a systematic approach, starting with a manageable quadrant and working from the top down. Cut the stems of larger plants approximately three feet above the ground, which leaves a small trunk section for better leverage later. This initial cut removes the bulk of the vegetation, allowing access to the base of the plant and any tangled undergrowth. Thorny or vine-like materials, such as blackberry canes or thick ivy, often require additional handling to prevent injury.
For these tangled thickets, use the machete to chop a section free, then secure the mass with a rope or chain to create tension. As one person maintains tension on the rope, another can chop the remaining anchor points, allowing the entire thorny mass to be pulled out of the way. Once the above-ground material is cleared, focus on the stump and root crown, which is the most persistent part of the plant.
To prevent vigorous regrowth, the goal is to remove the root crown, the area where the stem meets the roots just below the soil line. Use the mattock’s axe side to chop and sever the lateral roots surrounding the base of the stump. Then, use the adze side to dig and pry the soil away from the central root ball, aiming to remove the crown approximately two to three inches below the surface. Removing the root crown is more effective than cutting the stem flush with the ground, which often stimulates the plant to produce multiple suckers.
Safe Debris Management
Once the underbrush is cleared, the resulting debris must be managed properly to eliminate fire risk and tripping hazards. Small, pliable material can be run through a chipper, if available, and the resulting wood chips can be used immediately as mulch to suppress future weed growth. Alternatively, small volumes of organic material that are not woody can be added to a compost pile for eventual soil enrichment.
Larger volumes of debris can be hauled to a designated yard waste facility or landfill for disposal. If burning the debris is an option, check with the local air quality management district and fire department for current burn day regulations and permits. Approved debris piles must be limited to a small size, typically no larger than four feet by four feet, and must have a clear, non-flammable safety zone extending at least ten feet around the perimeter. Supervise the burn with a water source and shovel nearby until the fire is completely extinguished.